PHONE 970-209-2985
MAIL Vince Anderson, PO Box 323, Ridgway, CO 81432
OVERVIEW
3/08/08
Its been hot and cold, hot and cold for a while now. Some ice getting worse, while some is getting fatter. For the first time all winter, it looks like there is starting to be ice on the Ribbon and BBB. The Talisman has been climbed and some large pieces of ice are falling off of climbs near the skylight and in the Ice Park. Forget about doing south facing climbs like Gravity's Rainbow untile next season unless we have a big change in the weather.

There is a LOT of snow on most everything and some routes are missing part if not all of their first pitches as a result. The skiing is as good as it has been is at least a decade right now.

You can check the current weather forecast here.

The thin orange smear above the Ouray hockey rink on 3/08/08.

The Talisman before the last big dump.

Gravity's Rainbow on 12/26.

Topher Donahue on Ass In Space.

Wanna watch a short movie of climbing Fist Full of Steel?

Still telemarking? Still not convinced that it is a joke? Watch this short video that explores this subject.

Conditions Elsewhere
FATNESS
= Fat
= Healthy
= Thin
= Bony

Check with the Colorado Avalanche Information Center before going out into the back country.

Approaching Bridalveil Falls on February 26th.

AREA/CLIMB
IN?
FATNESS
COMMENTS
Ouray x xx
3/08/08
Ice Park yes
The Ice Park is fat and fun right now. The ice is holding up well and should stick around for a solid late season this year.
Skylight Area Climbs yes
All classic climbs are in and a few unusual ones are too. Look in the chimeny well right of the Skylight (right of the mixed route "Dumpster Diver"). Also, there is the delicate mixed route AC/DC, next to Choppo's AND a cool looking thin ice corner to the left of Slippery When Wet. All climbs have been hit hard by the sun on the tops so take care when exiting. The Killer Pillar is BAD ASS right now with a great WI 6 roof at the top. Poser's Lounge has "good" ice at the end of the dry tooling now.
Ribbon no
The first pitch is burried under 50 feet of snow so you can just walk up to the ice that is normally on the second pitch. There is thin ice from here all the way to the top, but there have been many large avalanches running over the route lately.
Bird Brain Boulevard yes
This route looks good and fun right now. Your experience is bound to be more Alaskan than Coloradan as you will have to tunnel through several snow mushrooms on your way up the snowy chimney. There is some ice in there and the first pitch and a half is now bypassed by walkiing up snow into the chimney. Be careful on the approach.
Talisman yes
The Talisman is in and and has been climbed by at least one party. The start is thin and exciting, but the crux, second pitch is good and there is even ice in the rock climbing corner. The last pitch is good and steep. It should stay good for a while.
Dexter Slab yes
Like everything else, there is a lot of snow on the route, but the ice is very fat and relatively easy right now.
Horsetail Falls Area yes
This is a snow climb right now.
Engineer Pass Area no
These climbs are gone and likely done for the season. As of this posting, Gravity's Rainbow was still there, but has a HUGE crack across it and is missing several sections. It should fall down in the next few days.
Others yes
There is a cool looking thin orange ice climb high on the north facing wall above the Rotary Park and hockey rink just north of Ouray. You can easily see it as you drive into Ouray from Ridgway.
Silverton x x
2/29/21
South Mineral Creek yes Good luck gettin in there. There is way too much snow to justify the approach and little ice that you would find to climb. Go somewhere else ulness you really want the solitude and don't mind climbing under the huge avalanche slopes.
Eureka Area Climbs yes I have no idea what the climbing is like there, but would guess that there is a lot of snow on everyting and that much of the ice is fat and easy with big sections of snow walking between short, easy pillars. The avalanche threat is going to be something to take very seriously there right now.
Telluride x xx
2/29/01
Ames Ice Hose yes
The Hose is in great condition right now. As with most everything else, there is a ton of snow piled up at the base so the first pitch is a bit shorter. The ice goes to the ground, but is steep and thin for the first 10 meters. The narrow section is just that: maybe a foot wide in places, but the ice is good. The upper pitch is fat and cruiser.
Bridalveil Falls yes
Bridalveil is now fat and wild. You can climb it by weaving around the many roofs and keep it at WI 5 or go straight up for a fun WI 6. The cone at the base is a snow slope. Recommended.
Silver Pick/ The Bone yes
The Silver Pick is touching.
Others yes! ?????.

Weather & Avalanche
Here is a link to the Colorado Avalanche Information Center. They have all the latest information on mountain weather, snow and avalanche conditions for the entire state plus lots of other interesting and informative information. The site is updated daily. Conditions will be posted by region. Ouray, Silverton and Telluride are all in the Northern San Juan region. Check it out!

CONTACT US AT: Skyward Mountaineering - P.O. Box 323 Ridgway, CO 81432 - 970-209-2985 - vince@skyardmountaineering.com

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