Ouray Ice Park
The state of the art in ice climbing instruction.
The Ouray Ice Park provides perhaps the ultimate teaching and learning environment for ice climbing. Located just minutes from downtown Ouray, the Ice Park has over 125 routes to choose from along the mile long Uncompaghre Gorge. All the climbs are one pitch in length and vary from easy grade 2 ice to M 9 mixed climbing testpieces. Your experience here will include a full day of hands on instruction from a trained professional. Spend some time learning the skills you need to go to the next step in the "schoolroom" and then go challenge yourself on one of the longer climbs in the "lead climb only" area. Whether you are a complete beginner or a seasoned veteran, you will find that your day out will improve your climbing.
Season:
At just over 7,700 feet in elevation, the Ice Park season is a bit shorter than that of the high country climbs, lasting from mid-December until sometime in March
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Multi-Pitch Ice Climbing
With the onset of the winter season, the steep gullies and watercourses of the San Juans transform into a multitude of frozen waterfall ice climbs. The San Juan Mountains near the towns of Ouray, Telluride, and Silverton, Colorado are famous for hosting some of the finest ice climbs in North America. With literally dozens of climbs to choose from, it is hard for the casual ice climber and alpinist to get bored here. Climbs vary in length and ability from two to three pitch romps up rolling grade two ice to all day affairs involving ten or more pitches of steep ice and mixed climbing. All amidst the splendor of Colorado’s most rugged mountains.
As the mountains become draped in winter’s snows, the threat of avalanche can be strong enough to keep us off many climbs. In the early winter, however, a shallow snowpack allows us safe access to most all climbs. For this reason, most climbs are best done in the early season (late October through late December). Mid-winter usually finds us in the confines of the much smaller, but safer Ouray Ice Park. Though a few climbs usually stay relatively safe throughout the season.
Classics in the area include :
- Stairway to Heaven, 900 feet, WI 4; the "must do" of the area
- Whore House Hose, 500 feet, WI 4 in a stunning slot canyon
- First and Second Gullies, 700 feet, WI 2+ to 3+, great moderate romp
- Direct North Face of Peak 12,578, 1500 feet (no kidding), WI 4+
- Dexter Slab, 500 feet, WI 3+ to 4, usually safe from avalanches
- Bird Brain Boulevard, 1000 feet, M 5 to 6, a classic mixed climb
Season:
Conditions vary from year to year, but usually last from November until late March.
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