WRITINGS

Following are some recommended readings.
Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley

Here are a few things that I and others have written that you may find of interest.

CLIMBING THE WHITE CLIFFS OF DOVER

“I think you should climb fast,” said my partner Yan as the incoming tidewater was now splashing up on to our small belay ledge. We had spent more time than anticipated rapping in to the start of the route and for me, tides are something I have never had to deal with before. The fact that the rodk was now getting wet did not bother me, though. I knew it would help my tools stick into it better. Now, looking down at the rising, black, frothy water added a sense of urgency to the climb that I had not accounted for. The biting honesty of the sea made itself ever more evident by the sting of the salt on my chapped, raw hands. The punishment of the last several days... (read more)

CLIMBING WITH NOVICES

Ever taken an inexperienced climber out on a multi-pitch route? Perhaps you were trying to impress your new girlfriend or boyfriend by taking them out for a little excitement. Or maybe you were just desperate for a climbing partner and you resorted to taking one of your non-climbing coworkers out. Whatever the reason, however benevolent your intentions were, it can often end up in a tense, stressful and uncomfortable situation for all parties involved. Here are some techniques that many guides use with clients. Follow these and your day is likely to have a much happier ending. ... (read more)

CHOOSING ICE EQUIPMENT

Equipment for the Modern Ice Warrior

It should be clear today that ice climbing and its attendant equipment have diverged upon two clearly different paths; adventure and sport. While there is no point in trying to be all things to all climbers, some gear spans these concepts and can be used for both applications. Gear appropriate to the Adventure heading is designed for trekking, general mountaineering and alpine climbing- no matter the standard or the odd waterfall climb. Gear appropriate to the Sport heading is designed for “ice cragging”, i.e. waterfall climbing and sport mixed climbing. Emphasis is on technical... (read more)

A SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT FORGING STEEL

The following comes to us from Mr. Pink, one of Salt Lake City's finest welders and alchemists.

I've compiled some specs comparing general mountain axes, forging, and casting. I've also included some metallurgical and philosophical anecdotes
I compared the Air Tech family, Pamir, BD Raven and Raven Pro. Measuring the tip of the axe averaging dimensions 1/2" from end to the end of each tool, here is what I found... (read more)

SURVIVING AN AVALANCHE

Following is a gripping account of an avlanche accident in March of 2005 in the San Juan Mountains. It was written by a close personal friend.

I can move both arms in about a fifteen degree arc; the first thing I do is set my stopwatch. My knee is slowly being tractioned apart. I have to dig myself out and find the others. My anemic hand-digging drops more snow around my face. I can't get my pack off to reach my shovel. Even if I am able to dig myself out, it will take hours. Will the exertion fend off the inevitable hypothermia that long? I dig, and dig, to little effect save exhaustion. Where are the girls? I poke my gloved hand out of the snow, resting, and a moment latter hear Donna. She is there, at the mouth of my cave.

“Where’s Sara?”

“I don’t know,” she says. “Buried.”...(read more)