Colorado Rock Climbing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison...

Within this wild and scenic gorge lies some of the best long, traditional, adventure rock climbs to be found on the continent. Because of the rugged nature of the canyon all access to the cliffs is from the canyon rim, where one must descend to the river before getting onto the bottom of routes. This gives the rock climbs a more remote and wild setting similar to that of being on an alpine climb. This is true adventure climbing that the prolific Black Canyon climber Leonard Coyne dubbed "Rockaneering." Coyne wrote that "rockaneering is an alternative avenue for expression and exploration that individuals may find lacking in the modern crag scene." Indeed this is true as many of the routes here feel more like being in high up in Chamonix, France than like being on your typical multi-pitch rock climb.

How deep is the Black Canyon? Click here to find out.

Rock climbing in the Black, as locals call it, is not well suited for the novice climber. (Nearby Unaweeep Canyon, however, is.) But, for the intermediate to advanced climber, climbing in the Black Canyon can be an incredibly rewarding and suitably challenging adventure. We offer guided climbs on several of the "Classic" routes in the canyon of a variety of grades and lengths. If you are interested in climbing here, but aren't sure if the climbing here suits your abilities, consider spending a day climbing in the nearby Unaweep Canyon to refresh and asses your skills.

Some of the better climbing routes include the following:

1) Cimmaron Slabs (III 5.7 R)
2) Ground Control to Major Tom (III 5.8)
3) Casual Route (II 5.8)
4) Leisure Climb (III 5.9-)
5) Lauren's Arete (III 5.7)
6) Maiden Voyage (II 5.9+)
7) Escape Artist (III 5.9+)
8) Comic Relief (III 5.10-)
9) Russian Arete (III 5.9)
10) Journey Home (IV 5.10b R)
11) Cruise/Scenic Cruise (V 5.10+)

Cimarron Slabs (III 5.7): This nine-pitch slab route ascends the shadier South Side of the canyon to the South Rim. This is the "Snake Dyke" of the Black Canyon as it follows a wonderful quartzite dyke up a 5.7 slab. This is a great moderate route for those enjoying slab and face climbing.
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Ground Control to Major Tom (III 5.8): This eleven-pitch route also ascends the canyon's South rim, just next to the Cimarron Slabs. It offers a bit more difficult and varied way to the top, while sharing Cimarron Slabs crux pitch up the beautiful quartzite dike. A nice outing on a hot, summer day.
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Casual Route (II 5.8): This is a great introduction to climbing in the Black being (relatively) short, (relatively) easy, and of (relatively) low commitment. The climb starts part way down a gully, not from the very bottom of the canyon. It ascends back to the rim in five or six moderate pitches of mostly crack climbing, The first few pitches are easy and wander up slabs to a nice ledge situate right below the crux cracks. The next pitch starts out with some very nice 5.7 finger crack climbing putting you at a stance just below the steep crux chimney looming overhead. The chimney ends being easier than it looks thanks to some well placed "holes" on the face to the left side of the chimney. They make excellent and welcomed holds for both the hands and the feet. Above this another pitch of easy slab climbing takes us to yet another ledge and more crack climbing. The next crack is about 50 feet long and somewhat strenuous, though never harder than 5,8. This ends the main difficulties and another few hundred feet of scrambling and bush whacking brings us to the campground at the rim.
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Leisure Climb (III 5.9-): Another great moderate route ascending the canyon’s North Chasm View Wall. This eight-pitch line ascends up the sunny East face of the wall. It is accessed in about 30 minutes by a descending the Cruise gully and making two rappels. The climb follows cracks and corners for a few pitches then nice rambling up a slabby face. There is only one move of 5.9 on the entire route, while the majority is in the 5.6-5.8 range. This route makes a great introduction to the Black Canyon with its varied and never too desperate climbing.
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Lauren's Arete (III 5.8/9): This route ascends a striking arete slicing the air in between the North Chasm View Wall and the Russian Arete in a dozen or so pitches. More like a mountaineering route, it climbs right up the narrow fin of rock and often over and around the gendarmes that cap its crest. It offers amazing exposure moderate climbing and is surrounded by big rock wall in all directions. A true adventure route!
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Maiden Voyage (II 5.9): This moderate route ascends a beautiful crack and corner system up the semi-detached buttress called the Checkerboard Wall. Six pitches in length, a short section of 5.9, a short approach, and a spectacular setting all make for a good moderate line. The first pitch starts out by traversing across a slab to gain the main crack system about 20 feet up. This is followed by a section of 5.7 crack climbing to a nice belay niche just below the overhanging crux moves. Next come the crux. Start out with some wild and exposed 5.8 moves on big holds out a short overhang. As you get over this there is a short section of finger crack, about 5.9- for a couple moves. Then when solidly over this feature, the route follows another 5.7 crack to the next belay. More easy cracks lead to a short section of offwidth, which is 5.7 thanks to some welcomed holds on the outside face. The next pitch tackles another roof which can be climbed out either side depending on how ambitious you are. The easier way is about 5.8. Yes, now things get much easier, but the climbing is still very good. Pitch five continues up a 5.4 corner with a move of 5.6 near the top. This will deposit us on the ledge just below the summit, which is gained by another short pitch of 5.7 crack climbing. This climb is somewhat unique for the Black Canyon in that it reaches an actual summit. From atop this pinnacle of rock the views of the surrounding walls is astounding. Truly a great climb! One rappel and then several hundred feet of scrambling bring us back to the canyon rim.
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Escape Artist (III 5.9+): One of the Canyon’s all time classic routes. Ten excellent, varied pitches on superb rock offering stupendous positions above the roaring Gunnison River. The "Vector Traverse" pitch on pitch four is an absolute classic, offering exquisite underclings in the arcing finger and hand crack across a smooth face. Then comes the "Enduro Corner" offering a full rope's length of sustained 5.8 jamming and stemming up an open book. If the 5.9 crack climbing thus far does not get you pumped enough, you can go for the optional Lightening Bolt Crack on pitch seven, a striking 5.11 finger and thin hands crack as good as any in Yosemite Valley. Most will opt for the standard 5.9 corner here after which is followed by several more pitches of mostly 5.4 face climbing. This is a great climb on great rock in an amazing setting. A must do for the 5.9 climber.
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Comic Relief (III 5.10-): The companion route to the Escape Artist. Comic Relief is a bit harder in one section, pitch three, where it climbs a striking 5.10 finger and layback crack. This is one of the best single pitches in the Black Canyon offering exquisite jams up excellent rock; well worth the effort. This is followed by a very pleasant section of mostly 5.7 face climbing. Pitch five starts out with a 5.5 traverse across a slab in order to gain a superb 5.9 hand crack in the back of a corner. Atop this crack we are deposited on a huge ledge. A good place for a break to eat, drink, rest up and take in the spectacular scenery. Now pitch seven heads up a short and easy chimney section and then into a wonderful 5.9+ stem corner. Once again, we arrive at a nice ledge, this one right at the base of the striking "Lightning Bolt Crack." This amazing finger and thin hands crack is sustained 5.11 b climinbing. Most will opt to climb the easier, but nice 5.9 corner behind the Lightning Bolt. This pitch, number eight, brings us to the end of the hard climbing as we embark on a few more pitches of 5.4-5.6 face climbing to the top of the formation. One rappel and a short scramble and we are back at the campground. There is not a single pitch of bad climbing on this route. Another Canyon classic!
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Russian Arete (III 5.9): Beautiful arete soaring above the Gunnison River to the North Rim packed full of nearly a dozen pitches of crack climbing. Good climb for those solid at the 5.9 level.
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Journey Home (IV 5.10b R): Less committing and easier than the nearby Cruise, Journey Home also offers superb climbing up the North Chasm View Wall for the experienced 5.10 climber. This route ascends the shorter East Face for eight pitches of finger crack, off widths, chimney, and exciting face climbing to the rim.
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Cruise/Scenic Cruise (V 5.10+): The Cruise and its variation, the Scenic Cruise are among the best rock climbs in the state of Colorado, if not North America. They ascend the massive 2,200-foot tall South Face of North Chasm View wall for a true big wall adventure. These are serious climbs and offer the experienced 5.10 climber a superb multi-pitch outing that has often been compared to that of the famous Steck Salathe route on Yosemite's Sentinel Rock. Expect all sorts of climbing on this full day adventure of a lifetime.
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