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Rock climbing involves both strength and technique. In order to achieve your best, it is important to develop both. Rock climbing technique is not something that can be developed by lifting weights. As well, strength can not be improved by just doing multi-pitch climbs. With the exception of advanced climbers, most people will improve the most by working on developing better technique. You should favor technique training over strength training at a ratio of 2:1. You should aim for no more than four to five days a week of training.
The following are recommended methods of technique and strength training.
The best way to develop technique is simply to go climbing. Better yet, go climbing in as many different areas as possible. Having a varied climbing experience will help you to develop a vast repertoire of techniques from which to draw from. It will also keep you from developing habits that only work well at your favorite crag. If you are not fortunate enough to live near to any rock climbing areas, perhaps you can visit a climbing gym. Climbing gyms are a great place to hone your skills, get stronger, as well as interact with other local climbers. If your climbing is restricted to gyms only, then try and get on all different types of routes available from vertical walls to corners to roofs and steep climbs. Once again, diversity is the key here.
Strength is also best trained by climbing. Sure, lifting weights will make you stronger, but the more "sport specific" your strength training is, the better it will actually transfer to the sport for which you are trying to get better at. Strength and power are improved by doing activities that push you to your absolute limit in a very short amount of time. For this reason, bouldering is a great choice here. To do an hour of short, powerful boulder problems will do wonders for your climbing strength. You can also work on strength in the climbing gym or at the crag. Again, you will want to do short routes that take no more than 30 seconds or so to complete. You should be failing, or better, falling. You must push yourself to your absolute maximum in a short amount of time. If you are sending the routes, then you are not pushing yourself hard enough. When you are climbing to train your strength you are not climbing to make it to the top of routes, simply to get stronger. You should try routes that are above your level of climbing and go until you fall off. If you want to get stronger, first you must fail.
Your power comes from your core. You can do wonders if you have a strong core. Martial arts experts have known this for centuries and can accomplish feats of incredible strength from this power generated in their core. Rock climbers can do the same. Yoga and Pilates are both great ways to develop core strength as well as many other potentially helpful skills. You can also develop core strength by doing a few supplemental exercises. For climbing, I recommend using a pull-up bar or finger board. With this you can get a great core-training workout. First, do pull-ups. Three sets to failure are good. Then do hanging knee or leg raises. Again, three sets to failure. Then, do another three sets of hanging back arches. For this, simply arch your back as much as possible from a hang. Imagine trying to touch your head to your butt. Lastly, do hanging twists. Here you hang, raise the knees and slowly twist as far as possible from one side to the other. Do 8 rotations to each side for three sets. After this, your core should feel alive!
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