Ham ‘n Eggs

Mark Cartier & I spent four days on the Tokasitna Glacier waiting for the recent snow to clear from the West Face so we could have a shot at the Harvard Route on Mount Huntington This didn’t happen and with just a few days left on our trip, we decided to bump over to the Root Canal Glacier to try Ham ‘n Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth. This route is a bit lower and faces south, so we figured it was more likely to be clear. Also, we were getting pretty bored sitting around, doing nothing for the past four days.
It was a good call: Ham ‘n Eggs was clean and in good condition. We had spectacular day on which to climb it. The weather and views were amazing! It was a perfect day to be in the mountains. We completed the ascent to the REAL summit (not many go all the way across the ridge to the true summit anymore and, yes, in case you were wondering, the summit still matters) in 9 1/2 hours round trip from our camp. The route had some very fun climbing and is festooned with fixes anchors, many of which are in need of some cleaning. Here’s a few shots.

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