Vince is a third generation native to Colorado and has called the mountains his home for his entire life. He climbed his first mountain at age five and started skiing at eight. When he is not out guiding and having fun, he makes his home in the beautiful mountain hamlet of Ridgway, at the foot of Colorado's San Juan Mountains.
Born in Colorado, Vince climbed his first mountain at age five and has been doing it ever since. Refusing to specialize, he climbs hard in the mountains, on sport mixed routes and at the crag. He'll place and clip bolts where appropriate and protect routes traditionally where appropriate - always respectful of local ethics. In 2002 he competed in the Ice Climbing World Cup events held in Russia, Italy, Austria, Switzerland and Quebec. He finished 6th in the World Championships in Austria. He's guided numerous expeditions in the mountains of North America, South America, Asia and Europe including : Shishapangma, Denali, St. Elias, Logan, numerous peaks in the Wrangells, Mount Robson, Mount Assiniboine, several 5000 to 6000-meter summits in Bolivia's Cordillera Real, as well as the major summits of the Western Alps. He started skiing at age eight. He competed on the freestyle skiing circuit, has guide heli-skiing in Valdez, and skied from over 7000m on Shishapangma. Vince loves hardcore music, good olive oil, and cooking multi-course meals.
Since 1998, Vince has been an certified through the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA). This is the highest level of certification available to mountain guides world wide. Vince is also involved training mountain guides as an instructor and examiner for the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). 
A FEW EXPERIENCES VINCE CONSIDERS PERSONALLY IMPORTANT:
"Harder Line" M9+ (Ouray), one of the hardest traditionally-protected mixed routes in the country, first ascent
"Rocky Mountain Horror Show” M11+ (Canadian Rockies)
"Breaking the Waves" 5.13a (Ouray)
“Durty (sic) Sanchez” ED+, WI 7, M7 (Alaska) new route on the East face of East Kahiltna Peak near Denali, May 2004 with partner Carl Tobin
Second Place, Festiglace du Quebec, 2004 team ice/mixed climbing competition with partner Rich Marshall
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Experience
Summer
2001-2004 |
Alpine Guide
Chamonix, France and Zermatt, Switzerland
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Summer
1994-2001 |
Alpine Guide
St. Elias Alpine Guides, McCarthy, Alaska
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Summer
2000 |
Alpine Guide, Rock Guide
Canada
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Spring & Fall
1999-2001 |
Alpine Guide
Sierra Mountain Center, Bishop, California
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Spring
1999 |
Alpine Guide
Shishapangma, Tibet
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Summer
1998 |
Alpine Guide
Sierra Mountain Guides, Bolivia
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Year Round
1995-2000 |
Alpine, Rock, Ice and Backcountry Ski Guide,
Adventures to the Edge, Crested Butte, Colorado
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Winter
1995-2002 |
Ice Climbing Guide
San Juan Mountain Guides, Ouray, Colorado
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Spring
1996-1997 |
Guide, Mt. McKinley
Mountain Trip, |
Training/Certification
| 1998 |
IFMGA Certification |
| 1998 |
AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Level 1 & 2 |
| 1998 |
AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide |
| 1997 |
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide |
| 2002 |
Wilderness First Responder, Wilderness Medical
Associates |
| 1993 |
BS, Engineering, University of
Colorado, Boulder |
Personal Climbing Skills
| • Lead 5.13 Rock climbs |
| • Lead Grade WI 7 Ice climbs |
| • Lead Grade M 11 Mixed climbs |
| • Ski 55+ degree slopes |
| • Climb Grade VI alpine routes |
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When you require the services of a doctor of lawyer, you go to someone who has been trained, examined, and met levels of expertise in their profession. Why not ask the same of a guide upon whose judgment and skill your safety rests? The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) certification program is the only internationally accepted training and evaluation process in the United States. We encourage you to always use this criterion when evaluating potential guides. A certified guide has demonstrated before his peers high levels of competence and judgment and has fulfilled technical requirements such as emergency medical and rescue training, and snow stability forecasting. As a result of the high standards required to pass AMGA certification examinations, the AMGA is now a member nation of the elite International Federation of Mountain Guiding Associations (IFMGA). The IFMGA certification is the highest credential earned by a mountain guide and there are only a few of IFMGA guides in the USA. Full IFMGA certification is achieved when a guide has successfully completed the highest level of AMGA certification in all disciplines of mountain guiding: alpine, rock, and ski mountaineering. The AMGA training and certification process is a lengthy and expensive process, often being compared to a graduate level degree.
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SPRAY
My rules of the game.
We all play games, stockbrokers, politicians, prostitutes and even climbers. The rules we choose to play with dictate the style, and the style defines our experience. Being somewhat of an anarchist at heart, I like to think that the rules I use to govern the game of climbing are "that there are no rules," but I know that this is not true. There are rules -- many different types -- and I play by them. Perhaps mine are loosely defined, then again maybe not. Sometimes I even change them to suit my particular event.
Rule #1: Honesty matters. When I get up in the morning I don't want to be ashamed of who is looking back at me from the mirror. If I play by a different set of rules than someone else I am honest about it. I don't pretend that we are all playing equally.
Rule #2: Be polite. Style is ultimately a personal choice, but I try to consider how my actions (and words) will affect the experience of others.
Rule #3: Risk is inherent. Sometimes the rules we play by can be very unforgiving. Death is permanent (I guess this depends on one's personal beliefs), so I'm careful.
Rule #4: Style Matters. As with every day life, I believe that one must pursue climbing with a sense of virtue and aesthetics. That being said, we should be able to look back at what we have done and be proud of HOW we did it instead of, simply, that we did it. Whatever the climb, whatever the grade, I want to do it in the best style that I am capable of. If I can not, than I will consider doing something else.
Rule #5: Play the game. To spray without having played should be a crime.
Rule #6: Have fun!
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