Climb The Moose’s Tooth Via The Clasic Ham And Eggs

Ham and Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth has quickly become a modern classic in Alaska mountaineering and alpine ice climbing. Thanks to an airstrip directly on the Root Canal glacier below the Moose’s Tooth, pioneered in 1999 by famed Talkeetna Air Taxi pilot, Paul Roderick, climbers are now able to set up basecamp an easy 15 minute walk from the base of the route, Ham and Eggs. Skyward Mountaineering has successfully guided climbers to the summit of the Moose’s Tooth via the ultra-classic Ham and Eggs route as well as its more challenging neighbor, Shaken Not Stirred multiple times. Many climbers choose to prep for a guided climb of Ham and Eggs by joining us for ice climbing in Ouray where we can very closely simulate the technical challenge and endurance necessary for a long day in the mountains. Ham and Eggs is often the first alpine climbing route for climbers looking to venture into the Alaska Range, requiring efficient ice and steep snow climbing movement skills, moderate mixed climbing guarding and an exposed corniced ridge traverse. Our commitment remains true to safely guiding challenging routes in Alaska and providing a unique, enjoyable and successful alpine experience for first-time Alaska climbers and seasoned alpinists alike.

Intermediate/advanced technical ice and mixed climbing in an alpine environment

Multipitch ice and alpine snow climbing experience required. Climbers must be efficient WI4 climbers with high level of fitness

6 day itinerary (Anchorage to Anchorage), the climb typically takes 12 - 14 hours camp to camp with optional bivy for 2 day ascent

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An alpinist’s graduation

In July 1975, Jon Krakauer, Thomas Davies and Nate Zinsser established the route, Ham and Eggs to the summit of the Moose's Tooth. After an awfully wet and failed first attempt they returned to the route a few days later and found better conditions. After 20 hours of climbing they arrived at the col below the summit ridge. Looking up the ridge encased in clouds they exclaimed “if we had some ham, we could have ham and eggs, if we had some eggs". This dark humor is emblematic of alpine climbing, sometimes it takes a bit of type II fun and positive thinking to persevere through challenges.
Did you know that former co-owner, Steve House was the first person to successfully guide Ham and Eggs? Nowadays, this route is viewed as an alpinist’s graduation and often the first route parties climb as an introduction to the Alaska Range. From our inception as a guide service we have been committed to guiding climbers on challenging routes in the mountains with a proven track record around the world. We continue to provide training support, climbing instruction and expert guides with decades of experience to help climbers safely, successfully and efficiently climb big routes like Ham and Eggs.
The Moose’s Tooth is an iconic mountain on the front side of the Alaska Range, dominating the skyline. Ham and Eggs is one of the most well known routes, a moderate snow, ice and mixed route that climbs 3000 ft up the central couloir splitting the south face of the Moose’s Tooth. Skyward Mountaineering believes in alpine ethics and while others are often content with stopping at the top of the couloir, we believe the summit still matters.
The climb itself is typically done over the course of 1 long day though it is also possible to enjoy a bivy at the col above the Ham and Eggs couloir. This bivouac makes for a spectacular view and can offer climbers an opportunity to break up the length of the route.
Ham and Eggs begins with an alpine start and a casual 15 minute walk across the Root Canal glacier to the base of the route. After crossing the bergschrund, the first two pitches have moderate mixed climbing on solid granite, using your ice tools and crampons in the cracks and to stand on small edges. The third pitch often has a steep but short section of ice to surmount before entering the main couloir. Steady and efficient progress up the couloir above is defined mostly by steep snow climbing with a few steps of ice pitches mixed in too, including the crux ice pitch mid-way. At the top of the couloir, the col is a great landmark for a short break where climbers can sit down and brew up before continuing up with a few more pitches of moderate ice and traversing the corniced ridge to the summit of the Moose’s Tooth. From the summit, we descend the same way with around 16 rappels and are rewarded with the comforts of Base Camp and a well deserved celebratory dinner.
As with all expedition alpine climbing, it is necessary to have some flexibility and be understanding that weather and conditions dictate the schedule.
Our first day can be a jam-packed whirlwind. Your guide will pick you up from the airport or your hotel in Anchorage and transport you to the town of Talkeetna, a 2 hour drive. After organizing equipment and weighing gear for the flight manifest we play the “hurry up and wait” game for a flight into the mountains. We’ve been using the highly reputable Talkeetna Air Taxi for almost 30 years and fully trust their pilots, we wouldn’t fly with anyone else! The flight into the Alaska Range is incredible, a highlight of all trips. We land on the small Root Canal glacier, perched above the enormous Ruth Gorge. We’ll set up basecamp just a short walk from where we land.
The route, Ham and Eggs is directly above our basecamp, plus jaw dropping views of the Bear Tooth and the Ruth Gorge in the distance. Depending on conditions, we may opt to recon the entrance pitches on the route on day 2 or let snow settle from recent storms. Our summit day starts with an alpine start and often takes about 12-14 hours camp to camp for a 2 person team. We have several extra days built into the itinerary to allow for stormy weather to settle so set you up for success.
It is also possible during longer periods of good weather and if conditions are favorable to climb the neighboring and more challenging ice and mixed route, Shaken Not Stirred. You may also opt for a flight bump to the Ruth Gorge where we can check out a different zone and climb a bonus route such as the Japanese Couloir to the summit of Mt. Barrill (erroneously spelled Barrille on maps).