The Action Suit - A guide to Layering For Alpine Climbing
Cold nighttime temperatures, warm/sunny glacier approaches, afternoon thunderstorms, snow wallowing, abrasive rock chimneys and freedom of movement for uninhibited climbing: your alpine climbing clothing system needs to be able to withstand a wide spectrum of conditions and abuses. Your “action suit” may vary based on the season and altitude yet there are still plenty of consistencies in the mindset and strategies for your clothing system to keep you protected from the elements, comfortable and agile in the mountains. Let’s nerd out together on the finer points of a versatile, lightweight and effective clothing system for traveling in alpine terrain.
Lower Body
Your boot selection will vary the most based on your objective. Are temps warm and snow soft? Maybe a 3 season boot with a heel welt and flexible sole will accommodate semi-automatic crampons while still performing well on the rocky ridge. Steeper and firmer snow may dictate needing a stiffer boot with both heel and toe welts for a more rigid and stable crampon attachment. High altitude, cold temps and an overnight expedition? Consider double boots for superior warmth and ease of drying out overnight.
Your boot and sock combination is a specific pairing, be sure to size your boots and socks to eliminate slippage, this will help reduce calf fatigue. A thin liner sock is a popular option to prevent blisters but I find that a single sock per foot is a better option for most to achieve the right fit; I also typically size my sock one size down from the manufacturer recommendation for a snug fit that doesn’t stretch out with multiple uses. Pay attention to the thickness of your sock (and any aftermarket insole) and be wary of boots that become too tight and cause a loss of circulation. It’s probably common sense to bring a spare pair of socks for multiday objectives, but also consider a spare pair of socks for longer single day pushes. Changing socks during a break can be slightly laborious but dry feet are happy feet and foot care is critical for prolonged performance.
Leg insulation: does the climbing objective require lots of start/stop climbing (technical pitches) or is there a lot of terrain that involve the team climbing together (steep snow)? When covering a lot of terrain quickly you may choose to use a light or midweight baselayer. For harder climbing that results in longer periods of pausing for the belay err on the side of a warmer baselayer bottom. These layers are too difficult to change on-the-move so choose wisely.
Softshell pants are a popular option as the fabric is often more comfortable when directly against the skin. However, softshell pants lack the level of weather protection of hardshells, are often heavier and despite the stretchy fabric they are generally more tightly fitted so add resistance to your movement and flexibility in comparison to a loosely fitted gusseted crotch hardshell. I primarily use softshell pants for day trips in cold subalpine environments such as ice climbing or for comfort around camp during expeditions to Alaska. I also will opt for lightweight softshell pants for cool weather rock climbing objectives as they offer far more durability on the rough surface. But for alpine climbing in mixed/ice terrain where you can expect wind or wet snow, hardshell pants offer superior value and have been my go to. Full side zips make donning pants with crampons possible, but also add bulk and reduce freedom of movement.
Upper Body
For summer approaches in areas like the Bugaboos or North Cascades I opt for a wicking t-shirt, as they are light and comfortable on those hot days. On a sunny glacier, a loose fitting sun hoody will provide shade and allow a light breeze to cool you down.
A fleece midlayer should have a hood which can easily add significant warmth. Avoid hand warmer pockets as they interfere with the harness and add bulk. Lofted or grid knit fiber fleece provide the highest warmth to weight ratio with exceptional breathability. A traditional fleece jacket with a smooth face unfortunately loose a significant amount of their warmth value as they age and pill.
An active insulation jacket should be in every alpine climbers closet or on the wish list. With exceptional breathability and a high warmth to weight ratio, this jacket can serve as an outerlayer or midlayer. For milder conditions or higher output activities, consider exchanging this piece for an active insulation vest instead, it adds warmth without the bulk.
Shell jacket: during short trips focusing on rock climbing with a good weather forecast it may be possible to use a lightweight wind jacket, but for longer trips without reliable weather forecasts or mixed/snow/ice routes a hardshell jacket will offer superior warmth and protection from the elements. I go back and forth with pullover options, they are lighter and fit more comfortably under a harness but are also more challenging to add/remove on-the-go. Avoid excessively heavy 3 layer hardshell jackets and instead opt for a simple hardshell with minimal features and bring repair tape for the inevitable scuffs/tears that will occur on a big route (guide tip - Siga Rissan tape is used in construction and is by far the best for repairing GoreTex, backpacks, and even sleeping pads). What about a softshell? Unfortunately this type of jacket (though popular) is typical heavy and offers less protection during inclement weather so only opt for this layer during good weather windows on day trips or in solidly below freezing temps.
Your insulating layer should provide comprehensive weather protection and enough warmth to survive the expected temperatures if caught out without a shelter. This is a big ask, but remember it’s combined with all your other layers. For warmer weather alpine climbing, strongly consider synthethic insulation as it will do a better job of keeping you warm during wet storms. You may even opt for two lightweight puffy layers (size them appropriately to be layered) as heat will be trapped between layers and this offers versatility for climbing in one puffy and then layering the other over top during infrequent stops. For colder weather or start/stop alpinism a big puffy jacket will provide superior warmth, I prefer a puffy with ~250 grams of 800+ down insulation. This exceptionally warm layer will keep your body warm and ready to fire again once you’re back on belay and can be counted towards the necessary warmth factor of your sleep system.
I often opt for lighter more dexterous gloves as it keeps me from over gripping my tools and cutting off circulation, therefore keeping my hands warm. But for more moderate climbing, frigid temps and belaying, one pair of exceptionally warm gloves can be the difference between frostbite and comfort. For harder pitches of climbing a pair of thin drytooling gloves will provide the most amount of dexterity, but avoid using these type of gloves for rope handling or snow climbing as they are not durable or waterproof enough for these tasks. For the bulk of my ice climbing, snow climbing, and even moderate mixed climbing I find the Showa TemRes 282-02 (this newer model has an integrated wrist gaiter to keep snow out) to be my go-to. There is no extra membrane like most other snow/winter climbing gloves so even though the fit is far from precise there is no movement between layers within the glove. Plan on your gloves getting wet: bring 2 pairs of midweight gloves (like the Showa), one pair of heavyweight gloves for those extremely cold temps, and for routes with challenging mixed climbing one pair of drytooling gloves.
A silkweight balaclava is a great option for warmth, sun protection and convenience. You may also choose to use a Buff instead as it is more versatile and easier to add/remove but also will need readjusting throughout the day. I prefer the Buff as I can pull it up over my nose and cheeks for full sun coverage.
As someone with a couple of growing bald spots you’ll be hard pressed to find me without a hat on. But in the alpine where you’re wearing a helmet the entire time, I forego the brimmed hat underneath as it reduces my field of vision too much. For long approaches I may choose a lightweight endurance style hat with a short brim or even just a Buff (this is generally already in my kit) to cover my forehead and ears. I don’t typically wear warm hats under a helmet and instead use the hoods on my upper body layers to regulate warmth on my head. Only for exceptionally cold temperatures do I choose to add a light fleece hat for that extra level of warmth/protection.
Bonus Thoughts - pockets and hoods, can there be too many?
Alpine climbing in cold weather often requires conscious effort to keep things from freezing, including yourself. Layers with a hood are an easy and quick way to add warmth but be wary of too many hoods as they can obscure your field of vision and your ability to hear your partner. I choose which layers I actually want a hood for and the others I opt to go hoodless, saving weight and bulk. For me, these hooded layers typically are: fleece layer, the hood sits tightly around the head and can be stretched over the helmet in a pinch or under the helmet for better warmth/weather protection. Hardshell jacket, a hood is critical for when the weather gets nasty. Puffy jacket, a hood in this layer adds substantial warmth and is not often worn while climbing. If using the double lightweight puff layering option, consider the larger sized one with a hood and the smaller one (to be worn while climbing) sans hood.
Pockets are used to keep important items accessible for on-the-go efficiency, such as snacks, phone, and sunscreen. Chest pockets on internal layers are especially nice as they keep items warm, so bars are edible and your phone stays charged. Handwarmer pockets on the other hand often interfere with your harness, climbing specific layers shouldn’t have these.
Questions About a Big Purchase?
Reach out and let us know what gear you’re looking at buying or have questions about before pulling the trigger on a high priced item. We’re here to help with logistics for your trip and ensure you’re well prepared with the right equipment to be comfortable in the mountains.