Climb the East ridge of Forbidden Peak
The East Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a step up in difficulty and exposure from it’s neighbor and the mega-popular West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. This route is defined by a striking knife edge and several crux gendarmes (rock pinnacle that obscures the arête). It is not uncommon to have the East Ridge route to yourself, it is a favorite among our guided teams and a highly recommended route for climbers with the movement ability and previous experience on alpine ridges. As a bonus, Forbidden Peak’s East Ridge tops out on the summit and then descends the classic West Ridge route so climbers have the opportunity of a 2-for-1 alpine climb.
Intermediate/advanced alpine rock climbing (AD, 5.8, III)
Multipitch rock climbing experience is required and a high level of fitness. Climbers should be comfortable climbing 5.7 in approach shoes
Typically a 3-day itinerary including the approach and hike out, the route itself is completed in an 8-10 hour day, camp to camp
Forbidden Peak 3 day climb
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The hike into Boston Basin for the East Ridge is the same as for the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak, it’s a steep, unmaintained climber’s path that ascends through dense rainforest with multiple stream crossings. When we finally pop out of tree line and see the entirety of Boston Basin, it’s not uncommon to have to pick your jaw up from the ground - it really is that pretty. After setting up camp, if there is time, we may opt for a nearby bonus climb…
Distance: 3 miles
Elevation gain: 3,200 feet
Total time: 4.5 hours car to camp -
The approach to the East Ridge route begins by hiking up the rock and snow slabs above camp to a steep snow couloir. Once the rock climbing begins the exposure is sustained along a knife-edge ridge with a couple steep gendarmes to navigate along the way. We descend via the classic West Ridge with a combination of down-climbing and rappelling, making for a great tour of Forbidden Peak.
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A leisurely wake up in the morning, we’ll pack up camp and hike out. It’s also possible for motivated parties, before hiking out, to add in another nearby bonus climb…
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It is possible to combine itineraries for more efficient use of time in Boston Basin and climb multiple big alpine routes. There are also several shorter routes that may be combined with a hike-in or hike-out day for fast and motivated parties to maximize your time.
North Ridge (5.4, II) of Aiguille de I’M:
A small peak separating the basins below Forbidden Peak and Mt. Torment, defined predominately by low 5th class rock climbing along a spectacular knife-edge ridge. The quick approach and shorter climbing make this route a great addition to the approach or hike out day.
South Ridge (5.7, III) of Sharkfin Tower:
A short vertical cliff with two pitches of high quality Skagit Gneiss rock climbing immediately off the glacier followed by a steep snow slope guarding the start of the route. Once on the actual route, the South Ridge of Sharkfin Tower ascends a steep, prominent arête with huge exposure to a few short low 5th class steps along the ridge crest. The views of Boston and Forbidden Peak are phenomenal.
Quien Sabe Glacier, Sahale Peak:
This route follows the prominent Quien Sabe glacier winding around crevasses and getting steeper towards it’s culmination at the col below Boston Peak. The route follows a rocky and exposed 4th class ridge for several short pitches to a small perch on the summit. The views looking down the Sahale Arm towards Cascade Pass are unparalleled.
