Coleman-Deming Glacier
Located on the north side of Kulshan (Mt. Baker), the Coleman-Deming Glacier is an introductory mountaineering route, perfect for budding alpinists who want to learn to climb glaciated peaks. Generally less crowded than a comparable route, the Easton Glacier, on the south side of the mountain, the Coleman-Deming Glacier route is defined by moderate angle snow climbing and though there are phenomenal views of nearby crevasses and dramatic snow faces, the route generally has minimal crevasse navigation.
Advanced technical mixed climbing and steep snow in an alpine environment with overnight backpacks
Multipitch ice/mixed climbing and alpine snow climbing experience required. Climbers must be efficient WI4 and 5.9 climbers with a high level of fitness
8 day itinerary (Anchorage to Anchorage). The climb typically takes 3 twelve hour days, camp to camp
Coleman-Deming 3 day itinerary
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Heliotrope Ridge follows a well maintained trail through a dense rain forest forest until a steeper section of trail just above tree line provides incredible views of the heavily crevassed lower Coleman and Roosevelt glaciers. We'll establish camp at the Hogsback Camp at 5,800ft with incredible views of the impressive Coleman Headwall above.
Distance: 3.5 miles
Elevation gain: 2,300 feet
Total time: 4 hours -
We spend this day focusing on learning the skills necessary for our climb and to help you become a self-sufficient mountaineer. We hike above camp to the lower Coleman Glacier, practicing skills such as:
Crampon and ice axe technique
Self-arrest
Glacier travel
Snow anchors
Intro to crevasse rescue
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An alpine start has us start our climb at dark-o-clock. The route is defined by moderate snow slopes with multiple crevasse crossings to the base of a rocky Pumice Ridge and the Roman Wall where the terrain steepens and we put the newly learned snow climbing skills to use. From the summit we're able to look down into the summit crater and across the entire North Cascades. We descend the same route back to camp, pack up and hike out to the trailhead.
Distance: 3 miles
Elevation gain: 4,900 feet
Total time: 6-7 hours to summit
