Climb The Sulphide Glacier on Mt. Shuksan

Climb the Sulphide Glacier to the summit of Mount Shuksan. The Sulphide Glacier on Mt. Shuksan is a great introduction to technical mountaineering, with moderate snow climbing on a large glacier that leads to the SW Gully of the summit pyramid. As the easiest route to the summit of Mt. Shuksan, the Sulphide Glacier is a popular alpine climbing objective, though hardly an easy climb - it combines glacier travel and moderate rock climbing in mountain boots. It is often the first route for climbers who want to jump into and learn more about alpine climbing.

Ice axe icon, depicting a guided mountaineering climb of Mount Shuksan.

Beginner/intermediate mountaineering with glacier travel and 4th class rock
PD+, 40°, III

Icon of a mountain, depicting the prerequisites required for a hiring a guide to climb the Sulphide Glacier on Mount Shuksan.

Previous snow climbing and rock climbing experience required. Additional days can be added to the itinerary for skills prep

Calendar and clock icon, depicting the schedule for mountaineering on Mount Shuksan's Sulphide Glacier.

3 day itinerary is standard though custom itineraries are available

Waypoint icon, depicting the location of Mount Shuksan.

Mount Shuksan
9,131 ft / 2,783 m

An Introduction to alpine climbing in the North Cascades

  • From the Shannon Ridge trailhead, the hike-in follows an old logging road to steep switchbacks cutting through a dense forest. Eventually the trail crests a broad ridge with wonderful views of the nearby mountain, Kulshan. The trail becomes less defined as we contour to camp on the terminal moraine below the Sulphide Glacier. Camp is at a scenic overlook conveniently equipped with a nearby solar composting toilet.

    Distance: 4.5 miles
    Elevation gain: 3,400 feet

  • From camp, we ascend the gradual Sulphide Glacier, navigating around crevasses along the way. At the base of the summit pyramid, we ascend the SW Gully, mostly a 4th class rock climb with some sections of steep snow, more-so in the early season. The summit rewards us with incredible views of the Cascade Range.

    Distance: 3 miles
    Elevation gain: 2,300 feet

  • A leisurely morning, we'll pack up camp and hike out back to the trailhead.

Climbing up the Sulphide Glacier during a spring ascent of Mt. Shuksan.
Climbing a snowy summit pyramid on Mt. Shuksan.
On the summit of Mt. Shuksan with a sea of clouds below.
Climbing up the SW Gully on Mt. Shuksan.
Early morning alpenglow on the Sulphide Glacier.

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