Climb the West ridge of Forbidden Peak
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America for a reason! The climb traverses a highly exposed rock ridge high above Boston Basin with incredible views of the surrounding North Cascades range and especially Eldorado Peak and the pristine turquoise Moraine Lake. With a steep approach through a dense old growth forest, arriving at camp in Boston Basin is truly a reward and well worth the effort. At 8,815 ft Forbidden Peak rises dramatically out of Boston Basin and the West Ridge skyline is clearly visible from camp. At the moderate grade of 5.6 the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a great introduction to alpine rock climbing, requiring climbers be efficient with movement and transitions over the course of a long day in the mountains, this iconic route should be on every alpinist’s tick list.
Intermediate alpine rock climbing (AD, 5.6, III)
Multipitch rock climbing experience is required and a high level of fitness. Climbers should be comfortable climbing 5.6 in approach shoes
Typically a 3-day itinerary including the approach and hike out, the route itself is completed in an 8-10 hour day, camp to camp
Forbidden Peak 3 day climb
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The hike into Boston Basin is a steep, unmaintained climber’s path that ascends through dense rainforest with multiple stream crossings. When we finally pop out of tree line and see the entirety of Boston Basin, it’s not uncommon to have to pick your jaw up from the ground - it really is that pretty. After setting up camp, if there is time, we may opt for a nearby bonus climb…
Distance: 3 miles
Elevation gain: 3,200 feet
Total time: 4.5 hours car to camp -
An alpine start has us leaving camp at first light and hiking up the snow and rock slabs below Forbidden Peak. Cat Scratch Gully guards the start of the route, with 6 pitches of low 5th class rock climbing up a broad buttress below the ridge. From the notch, the exposure begins right away, following a narrow ridgeline mostly comprised of low 5th class terrain and a few steps of steeper 5.6 rock climbing. From the summit, we reverse our route, with a combination of down-climbing and rappelling.
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A leisurely wake up in the morning, we’ll pack up camp and hike out. It’s also possible for motivated parties, before hiking out, to add in another bonus climb…
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It is possible to combine itineraries for more efficient use of time in Boston Basin and climb multiple big alpine routes. There are also several shorter routes that may be combined with a hike-in or hike-out day for fast and motivated parties to maximize your time.
North Ridge (5.4, II) of Aiguille de I’M:
A small peak separating the basins below Forbidden Peak and Mt. Torment, defined predominately by low 5th class rock climbing along a spectacular knife-edge ridge. The quick approach and shorter climbing make this route a great addition to the approach or hike out day.
South Ridge (5.7, III) of Sharkfin Tower:
A short vertical cliff with two pitches of high quality Skagit Gneiss rock climbing immediately off the glacier followed by a steep snow slope guarding the start of the route. Once on the actual route, the South Ridge of Sharkfin Tower ascends a steep, prominent arête with huge exposure to a few short low 5th class steps along the ridge crest. The views of Boston and Forbidden Peak are phenomenal.
Quien Sabe Glacier, Sahale Peak:
This route follows the prominent Quien Sabe glacier winding around crevasses and getting steeper towards it’s culmination at the col below Boston Peak. The route follows a rocky and exposed 4th class ridge for several short pitches to a small perch on the summit. The views looking down the Sahale Arm towards Cascade Pass are unparalleled.
