Climb the North ridge of Forbidden Peak
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America for a reason! The climb traverses a highly exposed rock ridge high above Boston Basin with incredible views of the surrounding North Cascades range and especially Eldorado Peak and the pristine turquoise Moraine Lake. With a steep approach through a dense old growth forest, arriving at camp in Boston Basin is truly a reward and well worth the effort. At 8,815 ft Forbidden Peak rises dramatically out of Boston Basin and the West Ridge skyline is clearly visible from camp. At the moderate grade of 5.6 the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a great introduction to alpine rock climbing, requiring climbers be efficient with movement and transitions over the course of a long day in the mountains, this iconic route should be on every alpinist’s tick list.
Advanced alpine rock climbing (AD, 5.6, IV)
Multipitch rock climbing experience is required and a high level of fitness. Climbers should be comfortable climbing 5.6 in mountain boots
Typically a 3-day itinerary, though a custom itinerary linking up additional routes in Boston Basin a fun and efficient option
Forbidden Peak 3 day climb
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This first day begins with the same approach hike into Boston Basin and departing from just below High Camp towards the Quien Sabe glacier. We ascend a small rock step to Sharkfin Col and make 2 rappels down the remote and heavily crevassed Boston Glacier. Traverse the glacier to a small perch at the toe of the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak where we bivy for the night.
Distance: 5.5 miles
Elevation gain: 5,500 feet
Total time: 10 hours -
We climb the entirety of the North Ridge, following sustained and exposed moderate rock climbing to a final headwall guarding the summit of Forbidden Peak. Descend the West Ridge with down-climbing and a few rappels. We spend the night at a fantastic exposed bivy ledge at the notch below the route.
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We start the day with 5-6 rappels directly from our bivy ledge at the Forbidden Peak notch and continue down Cat Scratch Gully. Descend the snow and rock slabs below Forbidden Peak and hike out to the trailhead.
