Climb the North ridge of Forbidden Peak

Bivy on the side of a mountain and climb the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak, an ultra-classic North Cascades alpine climbing test-piece. The North Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a fantastic introduction to multi-day alpine climbing where climbers carry their gear and bivy on the route. Though the climbing is moderate, the terrain is very remote with complex glacier travel, steep snow climbing and highly exposed ridge traversing. and climbing it all in your mountain boots rather than a more nimble approach shoe as with other neighboring routes. Due to the up-and-over style of climbing Forbidden Peak’s North Ridge, we climb snow and rock with one pair of boots, an added challenge and great practice for bigger mountain objectives. The approach to the North Ridge climbs up flanks of the Quien Sabe glacier and traverses the heavily crevassed, remote Boston Glacier making for a well-rounded adventure that is an awesome tour of all aspects on Forbidden Peak.

Ice axe icon, depicting a guided alpine climbing trip on the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.

Intermediate/advanced alpine rock climbing
AD, 5.6, 50°, IV

Icon of a mountain, depicting the prerequisites required for a hiring a guide to climb the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.

Alpine rock climbing experience is required and a high level of fitness
Climbers should be comfortable climbing 5.6 in mountain boots

Calendar and clock icon, depicting the schedule for a guided climb on Forbidden Peak's North Ridge.

3 full days with two bivies on route
Custom itineraries available upon request

Waypoint icon, depicting Forbidden Peak's North Ridge as the location for a guided alpine climbing trip.

North Cascades National Park
Forbidden Peak
8,815 ft / 2,686 m

Forbidden Peak 3 day climb

  • This first day begins with the same approach hike into Boston Basin and departing from just below High Camp towards the Quien Sabe glacier. We ascend a small rock step to Sharkfin Col and make 2 rappels down the remote and heavily crevassed Boston Glacier. Traverse the glacier to a small perch at the toe of the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak where we bivy for the night.

    Distance: 5.5 miles
    Elevation gain: 5,500 feet
    Total time: 10 hours

  • We climb the entirety of the North Ridge, following sustained and exposed moderate rock climbing to a final headwall guarding the summit of Forbidden Peak. Descend the West Ridge with down-climbing and a few rappels. We spend the night at a fantastic exposed bivy ledge at the notch below the route.

  • We start the day with 5-6 rappels directly from our bivy ledge at the Forbidden Peak notch and continue down Cat Scratch Gully. Descend the snow and rock slabs below Forbidden Peak and hike out to the trailhead.

Looking down at the crevassed Boston Glacier from Sharkfin Col.
Climbing the NW Face variation to the North Ridge.
Traversing the exposed North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.
Bivying at the North Ridge cutoff.
Descending the Boston Glacier.
Smoky skies looking out over the North Cascades and Eldorado Ice Cap.
Topping out on the NW Face of Forbidden Peak.
Traversing the North Ridge with morning sunlight.
Traversing the exposed North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.
Final moves to the summit of Forbidden Peak.
Bivy on the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.
Traversing the second snow arete on the North Ridge.
Climbing the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.
The final summit headwall on the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.

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