Climb the North ridge of Forbidden Peak
The North Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a fantastic introduction to multi-day alpine climbing where climbers carry their gear and bivy on the route. Though the climbing is moderate, the terrain is very remote with complex glacier travel, steep snow climbing and highly exposed ridge traversing. and climbing it all in your mountain boots rather than a more nimble approach shoe as with other neighboring routes. Due to the up-and-over style of climbing Forbidden Peak’s North Ridge, we climb snow and rock with one pair of boots, an added challenge and great practice for bigger mountain objectives. The approach to the North Ridge climbs up flanks of the Quien Sabe glacier and traverses the heavily crevassed, remote Boston Glacier making for a well-rounded adventure that is an awesome tour of all aspects on Forbidden Peak.
Advanced alpine rock climbing (AD, 5.6, IV)
Multipitch rock climbing experience is required and a high level of fitness. Climbers should be comfortable climbing 5.6 in mountain boots
Typically a 3-day itinerary, though a custom itinerary linking up additional routes in Boston Basin is a fun and efficient option
Forbidden Peak 3 day climb
-
This first day begins with the same approach hike into Boston Basin and departing from just below High Camp towards the Quien Sabe glacier. We ascend a small rock step to Sharkfin Col and make 2 rappels down the remote and heavily crevassed Boston Glacier. Traverse the glacier to a small perch at the toe of the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak where we bivy for the night.
Distance: 5.5 miles
Elevation gain: 5,500 feet
Total time: 10 hours -
We climb the entirety of the North Ridge, following sustained and exposed moderate rock climbing to a final headwall guarding the summit of Forbidden Peak. Descend the West Ridge with down-climbing and a few rappels. We spend the night at a fantastic exposed bivy ledge at the notch below the route.
-
We start the day with 5-6 rappels directly from our bivy ledge at the Forbidden Peak notch and continue down Cat Scratch Gully. Descend the snow and rock slabs below Forbidden Peak and hike out to the trailhead.
