Climb The North Face on Mt. Shuksan
The North Face route (AD, 60°, IV) of Mt. Shuksan is an aesthetic steep snow climb on a remote section of the mountain. More seldom climbed due to the difficulty of access, the North Face is a challenging alpine climb for advanced mountaineers. With incredible views overlooking Price Lake and sustained, committing and steep terrain, the North Face is an engaging route that should be on every alpinist’s tick list! As an up-and-over route, where climbers carry all of their gear each day, the climbing has an added challenge and requires a high level of fitness and perfect next step up in difficulty for experienced Cascades climbers.
Intermediate/advanced technical mountaineering with complex glacier travel and 5.6 rock climbing in boots
Previous glacier travel and steep snow climbing experience required
3 day itinerary is most common, though custom itineraries available
Steep Snow and Ice climbing in the cascades
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There are two approach options, though most parties elect to climb the standard Fisher Chimneys. From the low camp we descend the White Salmon Glacier to a section of rock slabs below the glacier, contouring below the Hanging Glacier. The approach climbs up and across a couple snowfields and talus slopes to the Bench Camp directly below the North Face.
Distance: 6.5 miles
Elevation gain: 4,800 feet -
From the Bench Camp, we ascend the glacier, navigating around large crevasses and up a short loose rock step to gain the upper glacier. The headwall is defined by sustained steep snow climbing and a narrow runnel of snow/ice guarding the exit onto the Hanging Glacier. We then gain the Crystal Glacier on a remote side of Mt. Shuksan and contour across to gain the Sulphide Glacier, below the summit pyramid to climb up the South Ridge. We descend the route via the standard Fisher Chimneys to a camp above Winnie's Slide.
Distance: 3 miles
Elevation gain: 4,200 feet -
A leisurely morning, we pack up camp and descend the Fisher Chimneys mostly via belayed down-climbing on the short rock steps. From just above Lake Ann we return to non-technical hiking terrain and hike out to the cars.
