Kahiltna Basecamp Expedition
The Kahiltna Basecamp is the launching point for hopeful climbers on Denali's standard West Buttress route. This zone also hosts a convenient venue for a multitude of technical mountaineering and alpine climbing routes varying in difficulty and commitment factors. From day trips on steep snow climbs and exposed ridges to challenging icy couloirs, or multi day varied alpine routes on challenging test-pieces. The word “Kahiltna” is a derivative of Kagheltnu Li’a, meaning glacier of river that flows directly in the Dena'ina Athabascan language. Many of the other prominent mountains viewed from the Kahiltna Basecamp also have original indigenous names:
“Denali” is a derivative of Deenaalee, meaning the tall one in the Koyukon language from indigenous peoples that lived north of the Alaska Range. As viewed from south of the Alaska Range, in the Dena’ina language the mountain is referred to as Dghelay Ka’a meaning mountain-big.
“Begguya” means his child and is known on USGS maps as Mt. Hunter - interestingly enough the name Mt. Hunter erroneously refers to a peak further up the Kahiltna Glacier.
“Sultana” means his wife and is known on USGS maps as Mt. Foraker.
The itinerary for a Kahiltna Basecamp mountaineering expedition is flexible based on climber's specific goals. We typically recommend an 8-day trip which allows climbers ample time to succeed on multiple routes within this zone. Itineraries are flexible based on weather, route selection and incorporated rest days enjoying life on the glacier.
Intermediate to advanced technical ice and mixed climbing and steep snow in an alpine environment
Multipitch ice/mixed climbing and alpine snow climbing experience required. Climbers must be efficient WI4 climbers with a high level of fitness
8 day itinerary (Anchorage to Anchorage) is recommended, though these expeditions can be customized for a variety of lengths
An Alpine Climbing Wonderland
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An aesthetic snowy ridge overlooking Kahiltna base camp is defined by steep snow and steps of moderate mixed climbing. This route has multiple variations, offering climbers a unique perspective looking back down at camp with a short approach and engaging technical mountaineering. The mountain is affectionately named after a long-time base camp manager.
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This modern alpine climbing classic sits in the basin below Begguya’s north buttress and is defined by sustained steep ice climbing in a narrow runnel system. Commonly done as a long day climb from base camp this is a fantastic ice climbing route where efficiency and strong calves are a must.
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This long and committing technical mountaineering route has it all: mixed climbing, steep exposed snowy ridges, moderate ice climbing and climbing alpine style for multiple days up a big mountain. The West Ridge route is truly a classic alpine climbing test-piece.
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As with all expedition alpine climbing, it is necessary to have some flexibility and be understanding that weather and conditions dictate the schedule.
Our first day can be a jam-packed whirlwind. Your guide will pick you up from the airport or your hotel in Anchorage and transport you to the town of Talkeetna, a 2 hour drive. After organizing equipment and weighing gear for the flight manifest we play the “hurry up and wait” game for a flight into the mountains. We’ve been using the highly reputable Talkeetna Air Taxi for almost 30 years and fully trust their pilots, we wouldn’t fly with anyone else! The flight into the Alaska Range is incredible, a highlight of all trips. We land on the Kahiltna Glacier at the basecamp used for all Denali ascents.
The best part about an alpine climbing expedition at the Kahiltna Basecamp is the access to a variety of route options. Over the course of 8 days we climb a variety of routes and rest as needed. We have several extra days built into the itinerary to allow for stormy weather to settle so set you up for success.
