Climb The North Face on Mt. Shuksan

The North Face route of Mt. Shuksan is an aesthetic steep snow climb on a remote section of the mountain. More seldom climbed due to the difficulty of access, the North Face is a challenging alpine climb for advanced mountaineers. With incredible views overlooking Price Lake and sustained, committing and steep terrain, the North Face is an engaging route that should be on every alpinist’s tick list! As an up-and-over route, where climbers carry all of their gear each day, the climbing has an added challenge and requires a high level of fitness and perfect next step up in difficulty for experienced Cascades climbers.

Ice axe icon, depicting an alpine climbing trip on the North Face of Mount Shuksan.

Intermediate/advanced technical mountaineering
AD, 60°, IV

Icon of a mountain, depicting the prerequisites required for hiring a guide to climb Mount Shuksan.

Previous glacier travel and steep snow climbing experience required

Calendar and clock icon, depicting the schedule for a guided climb of the North Face of Mount Shuksan.

3 day itinerary is most common
Custom itineraries available upon request

Waypoint icon, depicting Mount Shuksan as the location for this guided climb.

Mount Shuksan
9,131 ft / 2,783 m

Steep Snow and Ice climbing in the cascades

  • There are two approach options, though most parties elect to climb the standard Fisher Chimneys. From the low camp we descend the White Salmon Glacier to a section of rock slabs below the glacier, contouring below the Hanging Glacier. The approach climbs up and across a couple snowfields and talus slopes to the Bench Camp directly below the North Face.

    Distance: 6.5 miles
    Elevation gain: 4,800 feet

  • From the Bench Camp, we ascend the glacier, navigating around large crevasses and up a short loose rock step to gain the upper glacier. The headwall is defined by sustained steep snow climbing and a narrow runnel of snow/ice guarding the exit onto the Hanging Glacier. We then gain the Crystal Glacier on a remote side of Mt. Shuksan and contour across to gain the Sulphide Glacier, below the summit pyramid to climb up the South Ridge. We descend the route via the standard Fisher Chimneys to a camp above Winnie's Slide.

    Distance: 3 miles
    Elevation gain: 4,200 feet

  • A leisurely morning, we pack up camp and descend the Fisher Chimneys mostly via belayed down-climbing on the short rock steps. From just above Lake Ann we return to non-technical hiking terrain and hike out to the cars.

Looking back at the White Salmon Glacier and the approach to the North Face.
Climbing steep snow on the North Face.
On the Hanging Glacier of Mt. Shuksan below the summit pyramid.
On the summit of Mt. Shuksan with Mt. Baker in the background.
Mt. Baker with the moon rising as viewed from the Winnie's Slide bivy.
Climbing the SE Ridge on Mt. Shuksan.
Climbing steep snow and ice on the North Face of Mt. Shuksan.
Mt. Shuksan as viewed from the Mt. Baker Ski Area.
Climbing the SE Ridge with the sun rise lighting up the glacier below.

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