Eldorado Ice Cap
Alpine Climbing
The Eldorado Ice Cap circuit is truly a hidden gem in the North Cascades. With a wide variety of routes to choose from, a steep approach and one of the most scenic camps in the Cascade Range, it’s well worth the effort to spend a few days linking up peaks and challenging rocky ridges in the Eldorado Peak zone. Our Eldorado Ice Cap itinerary is specialized to offer the highest value and customization, where climbers can choose from climbing shorter routes near camp or the longest ridge in the North Cascades.
The Eldorado Ice Cap is the largest contiguous, non-volcanic glaciated terrain in the lower 48! Numerous rugged peaks, including Eldorado Peak, Early Morning Spire, Dorado Needle, Klawatti Peak, Tepeh Towers, and Austera Peak jut out of the ice and offer a multitude of linkup potentials.
Intermediate to advanced alpine rock and steep snow climbing. Routes range in difficulty from 50° snow to 5.10, IV with lots of options in between
Previous glacier travel and multipitch rock climbing experience required. Due to the difficulty of the approach, climbers must be in good physical fitness
A 4 day itinerary is recommended, giving enough time to climb several routes while keeping backpack loads reasonable
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During the recommended 4 day itinerary, we spend the first day hiking in to basecamp below Eldorado Peak at the junction of the Eldorado and Inspiration Glaciers. A steep, unmaintained climber’s path through the forest and boulder fields is the first challenge right away. Getting to Eldorado Peak is not an easy task but climbers are rewarded with spectacular views in a remote setting and several classic alpine rock climbs accessed from a basecamp overlooking Forbidden Peak.
Distance: 3.75 miles
Elevation gain: 5,400 feetDuring the following days, we choose from several objectives to climb, highlighted below. On the final day, it’s possible to climb a shorter route before hiking out.
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The Dorado Needle rises above the McAllister Glacier, defined by a variety of alpine rock climbing, involving steep snow, an exposed ridge and steeper walls of moderate rock climbing. The descent down the NW Ridge is an added bonus traversing the short but highly exposed ridgeline.
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The West Arete is the crown jewel of Eldorado Peak, one of the longest technical ridges in the Cascade Range. Sustained and exposed, this full day rock climb is an endurance challenge.
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The North Ridge of Eldorado is a short, exposed ridge hovering above the glacier and offering 360 degree views to Kulshan and Forbidden Peak - a great prep for bigger routes.
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Klawatti Peak is a prominent peak splitting the Eldorado Ice Cap, mostly 4th and low 5th class rock climbing with some steep snow sections, this peak offers unparalleled views of the immense glaciated terrain below.
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Several small but distinct towers rise out of the Inspiration Glacier making for fun, adventurous alpine climbing only a short walk from camp. It is possible to traverse the ridgeline of gendarmes or climb them as independent features. Route options vary in difficulty from 5.4 to 5.9.
