Black Canyon of the Gunnison Rock Climbing
Join us for adventurous multi-pitch rock climbing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, with the tallest routes in Colorado! The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is a stunning natural phenomenon with dramatic landscapes and world class rock climbing. With our headquarters in SW Colorado, Skyward Mountaineering is uniquely positioned to offer guided rock climbing in the Black Canyon, affectionately known by local climbers as “The Black”. With multiple 5-star classic multi-pitch routes from 5.9 and up, it’s possible to spend multiple days of guided rock climbing in the Black Canyon or spread out your vacation and sample other awesome climbing areas on Colorado’s Western Slope.
Due to the complexity of the climbing and the committing nature of the top-down approach, all of guides in the Black Canyon are certified AMGA Rock Guides with significant personal and professional ascents in the Black and other world class climbing destinations. When you’re 800ft up the wall looking up at the crux pitch, you can be confident in yourself and your guide.
Multipitch rock climbing
Routes range from 5.9 to 5.12 and big wall aid climbs
Intermediate to advanced difficulty
Previous multipitch rock climbing experience required
8 hours for “normal” routes and 12+ hours for Grand Cours
Mid April - late November
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
7,700 ft / 2,346 m
We are a small team of passionate rock climbing guides with decades of experience in the Black Canyon
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The Black Canyon is composed of methamorphic rock formed during an uplift event about 60 million years ago and then eroded by the impressive Gunnison River cutting through the volcanic top layer. Sheer cliffs, plunging depths and millions of years of erosion have sculpted a unique national park in this remote and un-crowded iconic climbing destination.
Unlike most climbing areas, an approach to a Black Canyon route begins with a steep descent rather than an uphill hike. Most of these descents require at least a couple of rappels, making routes more committing than your average crag. Multipitch efficiency, routefinding know-how and comfort with some runouts is a must - Skyward Mountaineering's guides are well equipped to safely and efficiently guide both the moderate and more challenging rock climbing routes in the Black.
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Ground Control to Major Tom (5.9-, III)
Blackjack (5.9, III)
Escape Artist (5.9+, III)
Russian Arête (5.9+, III)
Maiden Voyage to King Me (5.10-, III)
Journey Home (5.10-, III)
Comic Relief (5.10, III)
Cloaked Interpretation (5.10+, III)
Scenic Cruise (5.10+, IV)
Midsummer Night's Dream (5.11-, III)
Atlantis (5.11, IV)
Astro Dog (5.11+, V)
Frequently asked questions
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Yes, due to the technical nature, length, and commitment level of routes in the Black Canyon, participants must have prior outdoor rock climbing experience. Climbers should be comfortable following multi-pitch trad routes and have good overall fitness for a full day of rock climbing.
The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is best suited for intermediate to advanced climbers due to the complexity of the routes. The routes are all approached from above making them more committing than other multi-pitch areas. With that said, the Black Canyon is also one of the best long trad climbing destinations in Colorado and should be on every climber’s tick list! If you’re newer to rock climbing and want to climb in the Black Canyon, there are several easily accessible crags nearby on the West Slope that we use for prep days to help climbers develop the skills to confidently climb in the Black Canyon. Contact us to discuss a training plan and outline for getting ready to climb in the Black Canyon.
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The bulk of the climbing in the Black is 5.10 and above, though there are also several really fun and classic 5.9’s as well. Most of the routes combine crack climbing and face climbing - routes are often a combination of physical and delicate, requiring climbers to have a wide variety of climbing experience and abilities. The climbing is typically vertical to less than vertical, if a steep section exists it is often short in nature.
The Black Canyon has a reputation for hard and scary climbing, all guarded by poison ivy…Yes, there are routes that fall into this category, but the folklore is also designed to keep away the crowds and in reality there are numerous safe, Type I Fun routes that our guides and clients always have a blast on.
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All approaches in the Black Canyon start on top of the rim, making for a unique top-down approach which is very different from the typical hike up to the climb and then rappel to get back down. For routes in the Black, we typically put all the equipment on our harness and in a tiny on-route pack thereby eliminating the need for a large pack to be left at the base of the route.
Depending on the intended route and the gully used for the descent, the approach may involve 3rd - 4th class scrambling and/or rappels. Most approaches are around 30 minutes to 1 hour long, and egress back to the car can be as easy as a flat 5 minute walk along the rim!
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The Black Canyon has the best long multi-pitch routes in Colorado with multiple classic Grade IV and V routes that can take a full day or even require an overnight bivy. We wrote an article detailing our strategies for efficiently climbing long routes, such as the mega-classic Scenic Cruise, check it out.
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All of our guided rock climbing trips in the Black Canyon are offered on a custom basis. We will put you in touch directly with your guide to come up with the ideal route, start time and any other personalized logistics. No other participants will be added to your team.
We guide multi-pitch climbing in the Black Canyon at a maximum of 2 climbers per 1 guide. If you have a larger group that would like to climb the same route together we can likely add a second guide to the team in order to maintain a 2:1 climber to guide ratio. Contact us to discuss a rock climbing trip with groups larger than 2 people.
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We have a detailed equipment list to help you prepare and pack for your trip. If you have questions about any of the gear please let us know, we’re happy to help make recommendations or clarify.
Skyward Mountaineering provides all of the technical group climbing equipment, this includes ropes, anchor material, protection, etc. Many of clients are experienced rock climbers and prefer to use their own equipment, though we do maintain a small fleet of personal gear for climbers on trips with us to borrow. Please let the admin staff or your guide know ASAP if you expect to borrow personal climbing equipment such as backpacks, harness, helmet, belay device, carabiners, personal tether, etc.
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The prime seasons are spring (April - late June) and fall (September - early November) when temperatures are cooler but winter storms have not shut down the park.
The summer can be blazing hot, though it’s still possible to climb on shady aspects with early morning starts. We’ve had success guiding through July and August, though if your scheduling allows the spring and fall are more comfortable for full days of climbing.
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We have a great track record so far of sneaking in climbing trips between stormy weather and closely watching forecasts to have the most up-to-date and accurate conditions. If weather prohibits the team from climbing and your guide deems conditions to be unsafe/unreasonable for climbing we will work with you to reschedule your climbing trip.
For more information on our cancellation policy, please see our terms and conditions and contact us with any other questions.
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If you know what dates you want to climb in the Black Canyon, you can book your trip directly on our website. You can also get in touch to discuss your goals and ask any questions, we’re happy to help and send you a custom booking.
Though we may have availability for last minute trips, please always reach out and ask, we highly recommend booking your trip at least 2 weeks in advance so we can guarantee your guide’s availability and ensure that you are confirmed with all the logistics.
