Climb the Torment Forbidden Traverse

The Torment Forbidden Traverse is the ultimate Cascades ridge traverse, with over 1.5 miles of technical alpine climbing linking two iconic mountains in Boston Basin. This is an advanced alpine climb with two nights at exposed bivy perches on-route, requiring climbers to climb 5th class rock terrain with an overnight pack. Though the grade is moderate, the Torment Forbidden Traverse is defined by committing climbing over a long and exposed ridgeline, involving multiple rappels, down-climbing, traversing and steeper pitches of rock climbing. The route combines all the elements of summer alpine climbing in the North Cascades, it is a truly a classic alpine test-piece.

Ice axe icon, depicting a guided alpine climb on the Torment Forbidden Traverse.

Advanced alpine climbing
AD+, 5.6, 50°, V

Icon of a mountain, depicting the prerequisites required for a hiring a guide to climb the Torment Forbidden Traverse..

Alpine rock climbing experience and is required and a high level of fitness
Climbers should be comfortable climbing 5.7 in boots

Calendar and clock icon, depicting the schedule for rock climbing on the Torment Forbidden Traverse.

3 day itinerary is standard though custom itineraries are available

Waypoint icon, depicting the North Cascades as the location for climbing Forbidden Peak.

North Cascades National Park
Forbidden Peak
8,815 ft / 2,686 m

Traverse The Boston Basin Skyline

  • The hike into Boston Basin is a steep, unmaintained climber’s path that ascends through dense rainforest with multiple stream crossings. When we finally pop out of tree line and see the entirety of Boston Basin, it’s not uncommon to have to pick your jaw up from the ground - it really is that pretty. From this normal approach into Boston Basin high camp we continue with cross-country travel to the Taboo Glacier below Mount Torment. The route begins by climbing the moderate South Ridge to the summit of Mt. Torment. We descend to a notch below the summit and sleep for the night on a small bivy ledge.

  • We begin the ridge traverse, with several rappels, steep snow traverses and sustained exposed rock climbing along the ridge crest. The climbing is moderate in grade, but committing and long making for a challenging day. We bivy for the night at the small perch at the notch below the start of the classic route, West Ridge of Forbidden Peak.

  • We leave our overnight kit at the notch bivy and climb the West Ridge unburdened by the heavier loads. This ultra-classic ascent of the West Ridge is a perfect culmination to the traverse with solid rock and impressive knife edge exposure. We descend the same route and collect our bivy kit, rappelling 5-6 pitches down Cat Scratch Gully and then hiking out to the trailhead.

Bivying on the Torment Forbidden Traverse.
Climbing up the knife edge West Ridge at the end of the Torment Forbidden Traverse.
Climbing Torment Peak.
Looking out over Boston Basin from the Torment Forbidden Traverse.
Bivying on the Torment Forbidden Traverse.
Rappelling over a bergschrund on the Torment Forbidden Traverse.

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