Alpine Climbing On Longs Peak
At 14,259 ft, Longs Peak distinct and dramatic East Face is a siren call for alpine rock climbers, though there are classic routes on multiple aspects of the peak. As the tallest peak in the region, it’s even possible to see this iconic 14er all the way from Denver! Autumn through spring also yields some amazing ice and mixed climbing opportunities on Longs Peak and other subpeaks in the surrounding Chasm cirque. Whether climbing in the summer or winter, an alpine route on Longs Peak is perfect training ground for bigger alpine climbing goals such as the Himalaya or Patagonia.
Intermediate to advanced alpine climbing. There are summer rock climbing routes from 5.5 to 5.12 and winter ice/mixed routes from AI2 to WI6
Prerequisite multipitch rock (or ice/mixed for winter ascents) climbing experience is required
Most climbs are typically done in one long day, leaving the trailhead in the dark, though there are bivy locations below Longs Peak for climbers who want an earlier start and shorter summit day
Summer Alpine Rock Climbing
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A fantastic introduction to technical alpine climbing at 14,000ft on Longs Peak and all at a moderate grade! The Keyhole Ridge route follows the northwest ridge from above the Boulderfield camp to the summit of Longs Peak. We avoid the crowds on the hiking route, Keyhole, and descend the direct line on the Cables Route (North Face).
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A true alpine rock climbing benchmark defined by exposed and challenging climbing, mostly around 13,000ft on the Diamond of Longs Peak. This iconic route is a mega-classic and must-do for rock climbers who want to put their endurance and mountain experience to the test. Guarded by a 5 mile hike with 3000ft of elevation gain, followed by several pitches of low 5th class rock climbing in the North Chimney just to gain Broadway Ledge where we begin the route. The climbing is defined by fantastic 5.8/5.9 crack and face climbing to a short but steep crux 5.10a bulge. From the top of the route it is possible to rappel the East Face or continue to the summit via Kiener’s Route.
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Challenging crack climbing at 13,000 ft on the Diamond of Longs Peak defines this mega-classic route. Harder than it’s neighbor, Casual Route, but drawing a more direct line up the face without traversing makes Pervertical Sanctuary an attractive, though more challenging, route option for climbers with a strong crack climbing background.
Winter Ice and Mixed Climbing
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A great introduction to winter alpine climbing, Dreamweaver ascends the couloir splitting Mt. Meeker with a narrow runnel of ice and steps of easy mixed climbing that form reliably in the spring.
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This quintessential classic autumn ice and mixed climb ascends the lower East Face of Longs Peak, above Lamb’s Slide to Broadway Ledge. Alexander’s Chimney links smears of ice and pulls through a steep rocky section below an imposing chockstone. This is a must-do route for any alpine ice climber, with mostly moderate difficulty but a long approach and fun climbing in an incredible setting.
