Tips for packing for multipitch ice
When I first started venturing into longer winter climbing days, packing for multipitch routes was overwhelming. I didn’t want to bring too much that it might weigh me down climbing, but I didn’t want to bring too little that I couldn’t stay warm. I wanted to be prepared for various situations, but how much was too much? Now countless ice climbing seasons later, here is what I pack (and how I pack it!) before heading out for a day of multipitch ice climbing.
Ice climbing is dynamic and certainly all of this advice can change based on current ice conditions, weather, and avalanche hazard. But thinking through the following questions helps me pack just enough for ice climbing:
How am I getting there?
What do I need to lead it?
How am I getting down?
How long is it going to take?
The difficulty of the approach usually dictates what I will wear and bring as I get to the base of the climb. I almost always bring a collapsible pole: post-holing is the worst. If the approach is long and uphill, I put my extra layers in my pack. I want to avoid sweating as much as possible in order to stay dry. I wear warm gloves on the approach, but I also put my lead gloves in my innermost jacket layer, I call this the “oven.” They should be nice and warm when I go to lead the first pitch.
While this list is not comprehensive, this is my basic kit for a day of ice climbing:
The Basics: of course, helmet, harness, ice clippers, crampons, and ice tools! Usually I bring a thin 8.9mm 70m dry treated rope. But more often than not, I need two (or a 70m tagline) to get down. Make sure you research the descent before you go.
Protection: 10-12 ice screws. You should bring the length of screws you need for the quality of ice you’re encountering. But usually, I am bringing something like six 13cm, two 17cm, one 10cm, and one 21cm screw. I also bring a matching number of quick draws. I usually have 8 quickdraws and 2 alpine draws in case the route is winding. Remember that the belay takes screws too, be prepared to lead the pitch with screws left over for your anchor.
Anchor Material: something like a cordellete and a 96in runner. I’m generally carrying these on my harness on non-lockers. Remember, you’ll need a non-locker and a locker to go on your 2 ice screw anchor.
Belay Set Up: I usually bring a plaquette device, like the Petzl Reverso, attached to two locking carabiners for belaying up my follower in guide mode. Your partner will also need something to lead belay with. I like my partners to belay me on a Gri-Gri or some other Assisted Braking Device.
Extra Carabiners: I’ll need a free locking carabiner to clove hitch myself into my anchor. My partner might need one too. I’ll need one non-locking carabiner to go on an ice screw as I set up my anchor. So I carry 3-4 free assorted carabiners.
A Way to Get Down: Even if the route has fixed anchors to get down, I always bring a V-threader. You never know when you might need to bail mid-way, use smaller rappels to get down (maybe your rope was core shot), or beef up a belay if you used all your screws on lead. I also have my prusik and locking carabiner to serve as a third hand when rappelling. You’ll need some type of personal tether to connect yourself to anchors as you rappel (I use the Petzl Connect when weight is not an issue) and some type of extension for your rappel device when rappelling.
In Case Something Goes Awry: I carry a small rescue kit on my harness. It’s a very small knife and a Tibloc on a carabiner that I am comfortable leaving behind if I ever needed. I also have a progress capture device, like the Micro Traxion, on my harness, in case I need to create a hauling system.
What about a backpack? Or Two! I always have two backpacks when I climb multipitch ice. I have a 52 liter pack that I use to carry everything to the base of the climb. Once I’ve put my helmet, harness, gear, and crampons on, I pull out my small pack, a 22 liter pack specifically for the climbing. In that pack, I bring a first aid kit, an emergency satellite communication device like an inReach, a headlamp, my belay parka, a 20 ounce thermos with a hot drink like herbal tea, an extra set of gloves I could lead ice in, a snack, any other layers I might need for warmth, lip balm, sunscreen, sunglasses, and all the wrenches that come with my gear. Many times have I had to tighten the pick weights on my tools at the belay on a multi-pitch route. I also bring an extra toebail (they can break!), extra V-threader, a small file for my tool/crampons, and spare cord and quick links to replace an anchor that seems unsafe from seasonal use.
Wait, how many gloves is that? For me, 3, at minimum! Lead gloves, approach/belay/rappeling gloves, and spare leading gloves in case mine get soaked. Since they are so light, I usually take yet a fourth pair too, just in case.
Stay safe out there!
