Steven Van Sickle

Senior Guide

Portrait of Steven Van Sickle, lead guide with Skyward Mountaineering. He is wearing a large blue puffy jacket when guiding alpine climbing in Alaska, the background is blacked out.
Logo of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations with text "IVBV UIAGM IFMGA" and translations of "Mountain Guide" in multiple languages. Blue circular design with mountain graphic.
American Mountain Guides Association Rock Guide logo, featuring a camming device inside a red circle.
American Mountain Guides Association Alpine Guide logo, featuring an ice axe inside a light blue circle.
American Mountain Guides Association Ski Guide logo, featuring a pair of skis inside a blue circle.

Steven Van Sickle moved to Ouray from New Mexico 16 years ago, and has been a professional mountain guide for 11 years. Being based in the San Juan Mountains allows for the opportunity to ski and climb year-round while traveling the world for work and play. Steven received his IFMGA guiding license in 2022 and has been passionate about exploring and sharing experiences in the European Alps since then. He has climbed and skied on over 20 expeditions to Alaska, as well as extensive climbing and skiing throughout the lower 48, Canada, France, Switzerland, China, India, and Mexico. When not pursuing mountain aspirations, Steven is equally passionate about playing guitar, with a particular affinity for heavy metal, and spending time with his wife Alex, Pug Geezer, and Catahoula Bailey.

In addition to being a longtime guide at Skyward Mountaineering, Steven operates his own guide service Zero Gravity Alpinism.

Skyward Mountaineering guide, Steven Van Sickle, descending a snowy mountain slope on skis with rugged peaks in the background on clear day.

Climbing, Skiing & Guiding Highlights

  • Numerous ascents of El Capitan, in Yosemite National Park, including:

    • Lurking Fear (5.7, C2, VI)

    • The Shield (5.8, C3, VI)

    • The Nose (5.9, C2, VI)

    • Mescalito (5.9+, A3, VI)

    • North America Wall (5.8, C3, VI)

    • Tangerine Trip (5.9, C3+)

    • Zodiac (5.7, C3, VI)

  • Traditional rock climbs up to 5.12

  • Multiple ascents of technical alpine routes up to WI6 and M6 including first ascents in the Alps, India, China, Alaska, New Mexico, and Colorado.

  • Multiple guided ascents of classic routes in the European Alps, including:

    • Hörnli Ridge, Matterhorn (5.4, AD+, III+)

    • 6 complete ski traverses of the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt

    • Steep ski descents including: La Noir, Cosmiques Couloir, Glacier Rond, and Point Périades

  • Multiple guided ascents of classic routes in Alaska, with 20+ expeditions including:

    • 10 summits of West Buttress, Denali

    • Ham and Eggs, Moose’s Tooth (AI4, M4, 60°, IV)

    • Southwest Ridge, Peak 11,300 (5.8, M4, 60°, V)

  • Extensive ski and alpine guiding throughout the San Juan Mountains including:

    • Bridal Veil Falls (WI5/6, III)

    • Ames Ice Hose (WI5, M5, III)

    • Bird Brain Boulevard (WI4, M6, IV)

    • Steep ski descents including: Snake Couloir on Mount Sneffels, the Elevator Shaft on the Sultan, and the Gnar Couloir in Velocity Basin

Book a private trip with Steven Van Sickle!

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