Climb The Sulphide Glacier on Mt. Shuksan
Climb the Sulphide Glacier to the summit of Mount Shuksan. The Sulphide Glacier on Mt. Shuksan is a great introduction to technical mountaineering, with moderate snow climbing on a large glacier that leads to the SW Gully of the summit pyramid. As the easiest route to the summit of Mt. Shuksan, the Sulphide Glacier is a popular alpine climbing objective, though hardly an easy climb - it combines glacier travel and moderate rock climbing in mountain boots. It is often the first route for climbers who want to jump into and learn more about alpine climbing.
Beginner/intermediate mountaineering with glacier travel and 4th class rock
PD+, 40°, III
Previous snow climbing and rock climbing experience required. Additional days can be added to the itinerary for skills prep
3 day itinerary is standard though custom itineraries are available
Mount Shuksan
9,131 ft / 2,783 m
An Introduction to alpine climbing in the North Cascades
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From the Shannon Ridge trailhead, the hike-in follows an old logging road to steep switchbacks cutting through a dense forest. Eventually the trail crests a broad ridge with wonderful views of the nearby mountain, Kulshan. The trail becomes less defined as we contour to camp on the terminal moraine below the Sulphide Glacier. Camp is at a scenic overlook conveniently equipped with a nearby solar composting toilet.
Distance: 4.5 miles
Elevation gain: 3,400 feet -
From camp, we ascend the gradual Sulphide Glacier, navigating around crevasses along the way. At the base of the summit pyramid, we ascend the SW Gully, mostly a 4th class rock climb with some sections of steep snow, more-so in the early season. The summit rewards us with incredible views of the Cascade Range.
Distance: 3 miles
Elevation gain: 2,300 feet -
A leisurely morning, we'll pack up camp and hike out back to the trailhead.
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