Guided Alpine Climbing On Forbidden Peak
Climb Iconic Routes On Forbidden Peak
Climb Forbidden Peak in Washington's North Cascades with experienced, AMGA-certified alpine guides. Rising to 8,815 feet above Boston Basin, Forbidden Peak is one of the most iconic alpine climbing destinations in the Cascades, with exposed granite ridges, technical rock climbing, glacier travel, and spectacular views across the surrounding North Cascades.
Forbidden Peak offers several classic alpine routes ranging from intermediate to advanced. The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is the most well-known route and is recognized as one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. For climbers looking for a more technical challenge, the East Ridge, North Ridge, and Torment-Forbidden Traverse offer increasingly committing alpine climbing on exposed ridges and complex terrain.
Skyward Mountaineering offers private, customized guided climbs on Forbidden Peak and throughout Boston Basin. Choose a classic route based on your experience and goals, or combine multiple objectives into a custom alpine itinerary.
Choose Your Alpine Climbing Route On Forbidden Peak
Plan Your Trip To Forbidden Peak
Why Climb Forbidden Peak?
Forbidden Peak is one of the defining alpine peaks of the North Cascades. Its distinctive triangular summit rises dramatically above Boston Basin, with steep ridges extending from the summit in multiple directions.
The mountain combines many of the characteristics that make North Cascades climbing unique: technical granite rock climbing, exposed ridges, complex glaciers, and rugged wilderness terrain.
The relatively short approach into Boston Basin also provides access to an unusually dense collection of high quality alpine objectives. In addition to Forbidden Peak, climbers can explore routes such as Mount Torment, Sharkfin Tower, Sahale Peak, and others surrounding peaks in Boston Basin.
For climbers building toward more advanced alpine objectives, Forbidden Peak provides valuable experience with alpine rock climbing, route finding, exposure, glacier travel, rappelling, and efficient movement in complex mountain terrain.
Climbing in Boston Basin
Boston Basin is one of the premier alpine climbing areas in North Cascades National Park. The basin sits below Forbidden Peak and surrounding peaks, providing access to numerous technical alpine routes from a relatively compact basecamp.
The approach is steep and rugged, following an unmaintained climbers' path through dense forest before emerging into the open alpine terrain of Boston Basin. From camp, climbers have access to a remarkable concentration of routes. It is common for climbers to customize a trip in Boston Basin by combining an ascent of Forbidden Peak with additional climbing objectives in the area, whether that is another route on Forbidden Peak or another peak.
Explore Additional Routes In The Area
North Ridge of Aiguille de I’M (5.3, II)
The North Ridge of Aiguille de I’M offers low 5th class alpine rock climbing along a spectacular knife-edge ridge. Its shorter approach and climbing time can make it a potential addition to an approach or hike out day.
Quien Sabe Glacier on Sahale Peak (5.0, 40°, III)
The Quien Sabe Glacier provides a glaciated approach to Sahale Peak followed by short sections of exposed 4th class and low 5th class climbing toward the summit. This moderate route is a great introduction to alpine climbing in the North Cascades.
Southeast Ridge of Sharkfin Tower (5.6, II)
The Southeast Ridge of Sharkfin Tower features high quality Skagit Gneiss that Forbidden Peak is known for in a compact package. The route features steep snow and a highly exposed, arête with dramatic views across Boston Basin.
North Face of Mount Buckner (60°, III)
The North Face of Mount Buckner is a challenging alpine route featuring steep snow and ice, exposed climbing, and spectacular views across the Cascade Pass region. This committing route is one of the North Cascades classic snow and ice faces and can be challenging to catch it in good conditions.
Frequently Asked Questions
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The West Ridge is generally the most accessible of the major classic routes on Forbidden Peak. It is rated 5.6, III and requires previous multipitch rock climbing experience.
However, there are easier/less technical routes in Boston Basin on adjacent peaks. Popular moderate options include the Quien Sabe Glacier, North Ridge of Aiguille de I’M, and Southeast Ridge of Sharkfin Tower.
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The West Ridge is an intermediate alpine rock climb. The technical climbing is generally moderate, but the route involves significant exposure, a long day in the mountains, and substantial sections of mandatory downclimbing in addition to rappelling.
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Most guided Forbidden Peak climbs use a three day itinerary, including the approach into Boston Basin, the summit climb, and the hike out. Custom itineraries and linkups are also possible.
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Yes, it is possible to combine climbing objectives during a Boston Basin trip. Skyward Mountaineering offers custom itineraries for climbers who want to maximize their time in the area.
Contact us to discuss a custom climbing trip in Boston Basin.