Ham And Eggs, The Moose’s Tooth
Climb the ultra classic Ham And Eggs route on the Moose’s Tooth above Alaska’s Ruth Gorge
This world-renowned alpine climb rises 3,000 feet up steep snow, ice and mixed terrain at a moderate grade and with the shortest approach of any route in Denali National Park - making it one of the most iconic objectives in the Alaska Range (and many climber’s first foray into Alaskan alpine climbing). Skyward Mountaineering has a rich history of successfully guiding challenging ascents in the Ruth Gorge and numerous peaks in the Alaska Range, join our AMGA certified Alpine Guides on one of North America’s great alpine classics.
Our Ham and Eggs guided expedition offers detail oriented logistical support, a personalized itinerary, expert guiding, jaw dropping views, coaching and support from start to finish to increase your chances of success. Book your Ham and Eggs climbing expedition on the Moose’s Tooth in Alaska today and discover why the Ruth Gorge is one of the world’s premier alpine climbing destinations.
Intermediate/advanced technical ice and mixed climbing
M4, AI4, 60°, V
Multipitch ice and alpine snow climbing experience required
Climbers must be efficient WI4 climbers with a high level of fitness
6 day itinerary (Anchorage to Anchorage)
The climb typically takes 12 - 14 hours camp to camp with optional bivy for 2 day ascent
Denali National Park
Moose’s Tooth
10,355 ft / 3,156 m
An alpinist’s graduation
Ham and Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth has quickly become a modern classic in Alaska mountaineering and alpine ice climbing. Thanks to an airstrip directly on the Root Canal glacier below the Moose’s Tooth, pioneered in 1999 by famed Talkeetna Air Taxi pilot, Paul Roderick, climbers are now able to set up basecamp an easy 15 minute walk from the base of the route. Skyward Mountaineering has successfully guided climbers to the summit of the Moose’s Tooth via Ham and Eggs as well as its more challenging neighbor, Shaken Not Stirred multiple times. Many climbers choose to prep for climbing the Moose’s Tooth by joining us ice climbing in Ouray where we can very closely simulate the technical challenge and endurance necessary for a long day in the mountains. Ham and Eggs is often the first alpine climbing route for climbers looking to venture into the Alaska Range, requiring efficient ice and steep snow climbing movement skills, moderate mixed climbing guarding the entrance to the couloir and an exposed corniced ridge traverse to the summit of the Moose’s Tooth. Our commitment remains true to safely guiding challenging routes in Alaska and providing a unique, enjoyable and successful alpine experience for first-time Alaska climbers and seasoned alpinists alike.
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In July 1975, Jon Krakauer, Thomas Davies and Nate Zinsser established the route, Ham and Eggs to the summit of the Moose's Tooth. After an awfully wet and failed first attempt they returned to the route a few days later and found better conditions. After 20 hours of climbing they arrived at the col below the summit ridge. Looking up the ridge encased in clouds they exclaimed “if we had some ham, we could have ham and eggs, if we had some eggs". This dark humor is emblematic of alpine climbing, sometimes it takes a bit of type II fun and positive thinking to persevere through challenges.
Did you know that former Skyward Mountaineering co-owner, Steve House was the first person to successfully guide Ham and Eggs? Nowadays, this route is viewed as an alpinist’s graduation and often the first route parties climb as an introduction to the Alaska Range. From our inception as a guide service we have been committed to guiding climbers on challenging routes in the mountains with a proven track record around the world. We continue to provide training support, climbing instruction and expert guides with decades of experience to help climbers safely, successfully and efficiently climb big routes like Ham and Eggs.
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The Moose’s Tooth is an iconic mountain on the front side of the Alaska Range, dominating the skyline. Ham and Eggs is one of the most well known routes, a moderate snow, ice and mixed route that climbs 3000 ft up the central couloir splitting the south face of the Moose’s Tooth. Skyward Mountaineering believes in alpine ethics and while others are often content with stopping at the top of the couloir, we believe the summit still matters.
The climb itself is typically done over the course of 1 long day though it is also possible to enjoy a bivy at the col above the Ham and Eggs couloir. This bivouac makes for a spectacular view and can offer climbers an opportunity to break up the length of the route.
Ham and Eggs begins with an alpine start and a casual 15 minute walk across the Root Canal glacier to the base of the route. After crossing the bergschrund, the first two pitches have moderate mixed climbing on solid granite, using your ice tools and crampons in the cracks and to stand on small edges. The third pitch often has a steep but short section of ice to surmount before entering the main couloir. Steady and efficient progress up the couloir above is defined mostly by steep snow climbing with a few steps of ice pitches mixed in too, including the crux ice pitch mid-way. At the top of the couloir, the col is a great landmark for a short break where climbers can sit down and brew up before continuing up with a few more pitches of moderate ice and traversing the corniced ridge to the summit of the Moose’s Tooth. From the summit, we descend the same way with around 16 rappels and are rewarded with the comforts of Base Camp and a well deserved celebratory dinner.
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As with all expedition alpine climbing, it is necessary to have some flexibility and be understanding that weather and conditions dictate the schedule.
Our first day can be a jam-packed whirlwind. Your guide will pick you up from the airport or your hotel in Anchorage and transport you to the town of Talkeetna, a 2 hour drive. After organizing equipment and weighing gear for the flight manifest we play the “hurry up and wait” game for a flight into the mountains. We’ve been using the highly reputable Talkeetna Air Taxi for almost 30 years and fully trust their pilots, we wouldn’t fly with anyone else! The flight into the Alaska Range is incredible, a highlight of all trips. We land on the small Root Canal glacier, perched above the enormous Ruth Gorge. We’ll set up basecamp just a short walk from where we land.
The route, Ham and Eggs is directly above our basecamp, plus jaw dropping views of the Bear Tooth and the Ruth Gorge in the distance. Depending on conditions, we may opt to recon the entrance pitches on the route on day 2 or let snow settle from recent storms. Our summit day starts with an alpine start and often takes about 12-14 hours camp to camp for a 2 person team. We have several extra days built into the itinerary to allow for stormy weather to settle so set you up for success.
It is also possible during longer periods of good weather and if conditions are favorable to climb the neighboring and more challenging ice and mixed route, Shaken Not Stirred. You may also opt for a flight bump to the Ruth Gorge where we can check out a different zone and climb a bonus route such as the Japanese Couloir to the summit of Mt. Barrill (erroneously spelled Barrille on maps).
Frequently asked questions
Below are answers to common questions about climbing in Ham and Eggs in Denali National Park with Skyward Mountaineering:
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The Ham and Eggs route follows the central couloir splitting the Moose’s Tooth south face. It is primarily defined by steep snow pitches interspersed with short steps of moderate ice climbing. This world-class alpine climbing route involves a mix of pitched climbing and moving together as a team in order to cover a large amount of terrain. The first pitch grabs your attention with 5.6 mixed climbing and an exposed traverse to gain the Ham and Eggs couloir. The second pitch continues to stay engaging with a short but surprisingly steep ice step followed by several hundred feet of moderate snow climbing. At the start of the “Narrows” where the couloir is more defined by the rising side walls, there are several cruxy ice climbing pitches, around WI3 - 4 in difficulty. As the couloir opens higher on the route just below the col, the climbing is again moderately steep snow and ice. The summit icefield climbs a broad, steep ridge and traverses along the corniced ridge crest to the summit of the Moose’s Tooth. We descend the route by rappelling ~18 pitches.
Ham and Eggs is considered one of the most iconic climbs in the Alaska Range and is often the first route climbers experience due to the lower commitment factor, moderate grade, and convenient access. At an elevation of 10,335 ft, it is considered low elevation and can be climbed without the need to acclimatize.
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Climbers should be comfortable with steep ice climbing, mixed terrain, multipitch systems and basic glacier travel. Here’s some example benchmarks for when you’re ready to book your guided Ham and Eggs climb:
Easily able to toprope WI4, climbing a 30 meter pitch in 15 minutes.
Easily able to toprope rock climb 5.9 and mixed climb M4.
Stairway To Heaven in Eureka, Colorado is a good preparatory ice climbing route.
North Ridge of Kulshan (Mount Baker) is a good preparatory mountaineering route.
Skyward Mountaineering provides pre-trip coaching and skill development/assessments to help you prepare. We highly recommend climbing with our guides in Ouray to hone your ice climbing and multipitch efficiency.
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Typically, Ham and Eggs is completed as a single push (done-in-a-day) route. From our basecamp on the Root Canal, a small pocket glacier above the Ruth Gorge, it is a 10 minute walk until we begin climbing the snow slope and cross the bergschrund below the route. The route typically takes 8-12 hours on the ascent and then ~4 hours for the descent, depending mostly on snow conditions, whether in a team of 2 or 3 and your fitness level.
Our Moose’s Tooth expedition itinerary is 6 days long to account for inclement weather, reconning the route and with the option to add in bonus climbs of the nearby Wisdom Tooth, the route Shaken Not Stirred or even a flight bump to the Ruth Gorge to climb in a different zone.
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Yes! At the col above the Ham and Eggs couloir (before starting up the summit ridge) there is a large flat area that makes for an absolutely beautiful bivy location. Climbing Ham and Eggs over the course of 2 days is a great way to ease the burden of prioritizing efficiency and gives climbers an opportunity to recover before the final climb to the summit of the Moose’s Tooth. For climbers who would prefer a 2-day ascent, we recommend having a second lightweight sleeping bag and sleeping pad so you’re basecamp sleeping kit stays dry and ready for your return. This also allows climbers to have a smaller and lighter climbing pack.
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Yes! Skyward Mountaineering puts a lot of value in working with you to personalize every guided climbing trip, especially so with expeditions. One popular option to add into the itinerary would include a flight bump with Talkeetna Air Taxi to the Ruth Gorge or Kahiltna Basecamp to link up other routes in the Alaska Range with a Moose’s Tooth expedition. Also, climbers may want to have a shorter or longer climbing expedition, we can likely customize the itinerary to accommodate your schedule, such as a “smash-and-grab” ascent where climbers wait at home for a good weather window, fly up to Anchorage last minute and climb the route over only a short time frame, making it possible to leave work Friday afternoon and be back in time on Monday!
Let us know what your goals are and what type of adjustments you’re interested in, our admin staff are climbers, skiers, and guides so we’re happy to chat with you about all the possibilities and make personal recommendations. Contact us to discuss your dream expedition.
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Ham and Eggs is a south facing route so solar radiation is a major factor in both the formation and deterioration of the route. If temperatures are too warm the ice melts out and if it’s too early in the season the ice is buried under deep snow. We have seen changes in the prime season for Ham and Eggs over the years as climate change takes its effect - the route used to be climbable much later in the spring season and is becoming an earlier and earlier climbing objective. Storms are not reliably predicted months in advance, but the best conditions for climbing Ham and Eggs is currently from mid April to mid May.
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We have a detailed equipment list to help you prepare and pack for your climbing expedition. If you have questions about any of the gear please let us know, we’re happy to help make recommendations or clarify. Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal clothing, climbing and camping gear.
Skyward Mountaineering provides all of the group camping and climbing equipment, this includes personal tents and a basecamp/cook tent, stoves and cookware, camp maintenance gear, ropes, snow/rock/ice protection, anchor material, and other technical equipment. We also maintain a cache of equipment in Talkeetna in the event that personal equipment breaks, so your trip won’t be cancelled if you realize the airline lost your crampons. Our tents are strong 4-season tents and each climber can choose to sleep in their own 4-person basecamp tent (talk about luxury!) or share a tent with their climbing partner, if applicable.
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If you know what dates you want to climb Ham and Eggs, you can book your trip directly on our website. You can also get in touch to discuss your goals and ask any questions, we’re happy to help and send you a custom booking.