Petit Grepon Alpine Rock Climbing
The South Face of the Petit Grepon is famously included as one of the routes in the 50 Favorite Climbs in North America! The route is popular for a reason, ascending a narrow spire with moderate movement difficulties, solid rock and unique features to a small summit perch with incredible views of Sky Pond and the surrounding Glacier Gorge. The Petit Grepon is one of the most iconic features in Rocky Mountain National Park and an ascent of the south face should be on every rock climber’s list.
Intermediate rock climbing in an alpine setting. The classic South Face of the Petit Grepon is rated 5.8, III, 8 pitches
Prerequisite multipitch rock climbing experience is required
The climb is typically done in one long day, leaving the trailhead in the dark
Car to car is typically a 12 hour day
RMNP
Petit Grepon
12,305 ft / 3,750 m
One of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America
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This narrow spire towering above the aesthetic Sky Pond hosts an incredible alpine rock climbing route ascending 8 pitches of cracks and face climbing. The South Face of the Petit Grepon is listed as one of the 50 Favorite Climbs in North America in the Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s classic climber’s ticklist book and is still considered on the premier rock climbing routes in Rocky Mountain National Park. The great position, moderate grade and storied history makes the South Face of the Petit Grepon a climb not to be missed! The route culminates on the exposed summit of the Petit Grepon, with sweeping views of the Sharkstooth and Taylor Peak.
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Slightly more challenging than its neighbor, the Southwest Corner offers similarly awesome views and fantastic movement with less crowding. This is another classic route with solid rock quality, great positioning and also tops out on the same narrow spire of the Petit Grepon. It is a great option for climbers up for a bit more technical difficulty and wanting a route more to themselves.
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Adjacent peaks above Sky Pond and in the nearby Glacier Gorge are home to numerous other classic alpine rock climbing routes. From moderate introductions to alpine climbing and challenging, sustained rock climbing objectives there are limitless options to consider for your guided alpine climbing trip to Rocky Mountain National Park. We recommend the following routes as standout, high quality routes not to be missed:
North Ridge, Spearhead (5.6, III)
Northeast Ridge, Sharkstooth (5.6, III)
Southwest Corner, Saber (5.10, III)
The Barb, Spearhead (5.10, III)
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