Rock Climbing in the Fisher Towers
Climb the iconic corkscrew summit of Ancient Art in the Fisher Towers, a spectacularly exposed desert tower! The Fisher Towers are some of the most improbable looking rock climbing routes in the world, with the classic Ancient Art route being a must-do adventure for any rock climber. Located 20 miles from Moab and just down the road from the classic desert towers in Castle Valley, the Fisher Towers are a softer sandstone that resembles a child building castles on the beach by dribbling wet sand. Composed of a Cutler sandstone on the bottom portion and capped by Moenkopi sandstone, these radically eroded desert towers offer a totally unique style of rock climbing set amongst an incredible setting and big exposure.
Multipitch rock climbing
Ancient Art (5.10, III or 5.8+/A0)
Intermediate difficulty
Previous rock climbing experience required
Full day (8 hours)
Late February - late May & mid September - late November
Moab, Utah
4,743 ft / 1,445 m
climb Moab’s wildest desert tower: Ancient Art!
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The iconic summit of Ancient Art stands out as a desert tower classic, accessible at a moderate grade of 5.8 A0 (two short sections of a bolt ladder can be easily aided or free climbed at 5.10). This exposed route ascends several fun pitches of chimneys, cracks and face climbing to a narrow walkway and an absolutely wild finish, a true adventure climb!
Pitch 1: (5.6) Climb gently angling terrain with a couple bulges to a large ledge. Walk the ledge to the base of a vertical but short step of conglomerate cobbles. This is the first optional aid pitch, though with coaching from your guide directly above it’s a fun challenge to free climb.
Pitch 2: A crack system with fun and varied climbing with three-dimensional movement. This long pitch finishes at a comfortable ledge with awesome views looking out at Castle Valley.
Pitch 3: A short vertical step with techy face climbing to an exposed ledge below the summit.
Pitch 4: This classic pitch starts off with an exposed walkway to the “Diving Board” - a protruding feature at 4 feet tall that needs to be surmounted. Some three dimensional climbing up the bulbous summit block brings climbers to the small balanced rock summit with 360° views.
Descend the route with multiple rappels.
It is often possible to link a guided climb of Ancient Art with another tower such as Lizard Rock, which is easily accessed from the same trailhead, or a short drive to the River Road Dihedrals. Alternatively, it’s possible to climb a few more pitches at one of Moab’s excellent crags.
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It is often possible to link a guided climb of Ancient Art with another tower such as Lizard Rock, which is easily accessed from the same trailhead, or a short drive to the River Road Dihedrals. Alternatively, it’s possible to climb a few more pitches at one of Moab’s excellent crags.
There are also several difficult and big wall aid climbing routes in the Fisher Towers for climbers looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure. Routes such as the Finger of Fate on the Titan are fun, engaging and totally unique once-in-a-lifetime routes for climbers up for the challenge.
Frequently asked questions
Below are answers to common questions about climbing Ancient Art and other desert towers in the Fisher Chimneys with Skyward Mountaineering:
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The standard route on Ancient Art is “Stolen Chimney”, there are two short sections of of 5.10 that involve techy/balancey climbing. The rest of the route has climbing between 5.6 to 5.8+, with some crack climbing and face climbing. The sections of 5.10 have closely spaced bolts so climbers who want to keep the climbing grade at 5.8 can pull on quickdraws to keep the route at a moderate grade.
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Yes! Skyward Mountaineering puts a lot of value in working with you to personalize every guided climbing trip, so details like the start time, hiking pace, photos, climbing instruction, bonus pitches afterwards, etc can all be adjusted to meet your specific goals. Your guide will reach out in the days before the climb to discuss these logistics, please let them know if you have any questions or specific requests.
Additionally, our administrative staff are climbers and guides too and we’re here to support you through the whole process. If you have any questions before booking your guided climb or before the trip starts please reach out to us and we are happy to answer your questions.
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Yes, of course, we are happy to create a rock climbing tour of the Moab area for you. There are lots of crags with awesome crack climbing and other desert towers such as in Castle Valley. Let us know how many days you’re interested in and what goals you have, we will create a custom Moab rock climbing trip with you.
We highly recommend a 4-day itinerary to sample some of the best and most classic rock climbing routes in Moab.
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We guide Ancient Art at a maximum of 2 climbers per guide. If you would like to climb with a group larger than 2 people we can add a guide so everyone is able to climb together. Contact us to discuss a rock climbing trip with groups larger than 4 people.
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We have a detailed equipment list to help you prepare and pack for your trip. If you have questions about any of the gear please let us know, we’re happy to help make recommendations or clarify.
Skyward Mountaineering provides all of the technical group climbing equipment, this includes ropes, anchor material, protection, etc. Many of clients are experienced rock climbers and prefer to use their own equipment, as such we only have a small amount of personal equipment for climbers to use. Please let the admin staff or your guide know ASAP if you expect to borrow personal climbing equipment such as backpacks, harness, helmet, belay device, carabiners, personal tether, etc. We do not have a fleet of rock climbing shoes, so this piece of gear is often not included, but again let us know and we can try our best to help.
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The best weather for rock climbing Ancient Art and other desert tower routes in Moab is spring and fall. Temperatures are moderate and rain events are more rare. It is also possible to rock climb sunny aspects during the winter though occasional storms pass through the Moab region and cold windy conditions are possible.
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Rock climbing in the Fisher Towers is on a soft sandstone that is highly porous. Rain is absorbed into the rock and weakens the bond on hand holds and even bolts. In the event of rain within 24 hours in Moab and the Fisher Chimneys, we may have to reschedule a climb of Ancient Art. This reschedule will depend on how much rain occurs, whether the sun comes out, and what the wind speed/direction is.
Our guides and office staff will work you to coordinate rescheduling, if necessary. For more information on our cancellation policy, please see our terms and conditions and contact us with any other questions.
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