Ancient Art Guided Rock Climbing

Climb The Iconic Ancient Art In The Fisher Towers

Ancient Art is one of the most recognizable desert towers near Moab, Utah, famous for its wildly exposed corkscrew summit and spectacular setting in the Fisher Towers. The classic Stolen Chimney route is a multipitch route combining crack climbing, face climbing, chimneys, and an unforgettable final pitch that puts you on one of the most unusual summits in the desert.

Skyward Mountaineering offers guided climbs of Ancient Art for adventurous climbers looking to experience one of Moab's classic desert towers. The standard route can be climbed free at 5.10 with two short sections of technical face climbing or 5.8, A0, meaning pulling on quickdraws clipped to bolts through the two crux sequences. This option to make the moves with aid climbing tactics keeps the grade moderate and more accessible, though our preference is to spend a prep day helping you develop the movement skills to climb the route free and in best style.

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Multipitch rock climbing on Ancient Art (5.10, III) and big wall climbing on nearby routes in the Fisher Towers.

Icon of a mountain, depicting the prerequisites required for a hiring a guide to rock climb in Moab.

Intermediate difficulty, previous outdoor rock climbing experience required. It is possible to add a day of prep climbing beforehand for training to climb Ancient Art.

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Full day (8 hours) of hiking and climbing. The best season to climb Ancient Art is late February - early June and mid September to late November.

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Ancient Art is in the Fisher Towers, outside of Moab, Utah.

Ancient Art's Stolen Chimney Route

The Stolen Chimney is the classic route to Ancient Art's famous corkscrew summit and the most popular climbing route on the formation. First climbed by Paul Sibley and Bill Roos in 1969, the route combines several pitches of relatively moderate climbing with two short sections of harder face movement, chimneys, cracks, and huge exposure.

The climbing is only part of the experience. Ancient Art's narrow summit, dramatic exposure and unusual three-dimensional architecture make the final section particularly memorable. From the top, climbers get expansive views across the Fisher Towers, Castle Valley and the surrounding desert landscape.

For a guided ascent, your guide will manage the technical systems and help you climb efficiently while coaching you through the movement and route. Ancient Art is a great objective for climbers who want their first taste of desert tower climbing without committing to one of the area's longer or harder objectives.

  • Pitch 1: (5.6) Climb gently angling terrain with a couple bulges to a large ledge. Above is a short step up a groove with conglomerate pebbles, the climbing here is 5.10 but is bolted in a manner that also allows climbers to aid through the difficulties.

    Pitch 2: A crack system with fun and varied climbing with three-dimensional movement. This long pitch finishes at a comfortable ledge with awesome views looking out at Castle Valley.

    Pitch 3: A short vertical step with technical face climbing similar to the first pitch leads to an exposed ledge below the summit.

    Pitch 4: This classic pitch starts off with an exposed walkway to the “Diving Board”, a protruding feature at 4 feet tall that needs to be surmounted. Some three dimensional climbing up the bulbous summit block brings climbers to the small balanced rock summit with 360° views.

  • A climber is reaching for the next hold on pitch two of Ancient Art in Moab's Fisher Towers.
  • View of the Fisher Towers with the snowy La Sal mountains in the background, outside of Moab, Utah.
  • A climber on the corkscrew summit of Ancient Art.

Plan Your Ancient Art Climbing Trip

Why Climb Ancient Art?

Ancient Art offers an unusual combination of moderate climbing, enormous exposure and one of the most distinctive summits in the desert Southwest. The route is short enough to be approachable as a full day guided objective while still delivering the feeling of a true desert tower adventure. Highlights include:

  • Classic multipitch climbing in the Fisher Towers

  • A dramatic exposed summit

  • Sweeping views across the Colorado Plateau

  • Opportunities to combine Ancient Art with additional climbing in Moab

The Geology Of The Fisher Towers

The Fisher Towers are carved from soft, highly eroded sandstone that gives the formations their unusual shapes and dramatic appearance. The softer sandstone resembles a child building castles on the beach by dribbling the wet sand.

The towers are composed primarily of Cutler sandstone, with younger Moenkopi sandstone forming the caprock in parts of the formation. Wind, water and erosion have sculpted the rock into narrow fins, towers and pinnacles.Ancient Art is perhaps the best known example, with its corkscrew summit creating one of the most recognizable silhouettes in the Fisher Towers.

FAQs For Rock Climbing Ancient Art

  • The classic Stolen Chimney route on Ancient Art is generally rated 5.10 for the free climbing moves on pitch 1 and 3, or approximately 5.8 A0 if the short bolted crux sections are aided. Most of the climbing is easier than the overall free climbing grade, with the route combining moderate face, crack and chimney climbing with a highly exposed summit finish.

    The difficulty of Ancient Art isn't only about the grade. Climbers need to be comfortable with outdoor multipitch climbing, moving through several pitches of exposed terrain and managing the physical and psychological demands of a desert tower. The final corkscrew summit is particularly exposed and is a major part of what makes the route memorable.

    Indoor climbing experience alone isn't necessarily enough preparation. If you have limited outdoor or multipitch experience, talk with us about a preparation day or another Moab climbing objective before attempting Ancient Art.

  • Ancient Art is not a beginner climbing route, but it can be an excellent first desert tower for climbers who already have some outdoor rock climbing experience. The standard Stolen Chimney route is moderate for a desert tower, but it still involves multipitch climbing, exposure, rappelling and short sections of challenging movement.

    If you're new to outdoor climbing, we recommend starting with a guided single-pitch climbing day around Moab. Climbers with more experience can use a preparation day to work on crack climbing and multipitch systems before progressing to Ancient Art.

    If you're unsure whether you're ready, tell us what you've climbed and how much outdoor experience you have. We'll help you decide whether Ancient Art is an appropriate objective and make recommendations for training if additional prep is needed.

  • Yes, of course, we are happy to create a rock climbing tour of the Moab area for you. There are lots of crags with awesome crack climbing and other desert towers such as in Castle Valley. Let us know how many days you’re interested in and what goals you have, we will create a custom Moab rock climbing trip with you.

    We highly recommend a 4 day itinerary to sample some of the best and most classic rock climbing routes in Moab.

  • We guide Ancient Art at a maximum of 2 climbers per guide. If you would like to climb with a group larger than 2 people we can add a guide so everyone is able to climb together. Contact us to discuss a rock climbing trip with groups larger than 4 people.

  • We have a detailed equipment list to help you prepare and pack for your trip. If you have questions about any of the gear please let us know, we’re happy to help make recommendations or clarify.

    Skyward Mountaineering provides all of the technical group climbing equipment, this includes ropes, anchor material, protection, etc. Many of clients are experienced rock climbers and prefer to use their own equipment, as such we only have a small amount of personal equipment for climbers to use. Please let the admin staff or your guide know ASAP if you expect to borrow personal climbing equipment such as backpacks, harness, helmet, belay device, carabiners, personal tether, etc. We do not have a fleet of rock climbing shoes, so this piece of gear is often not included, but again let us know and we can try our best to help.

  • The best weather for rock climbing Ancient Art and other desert tower routes in Moab is spring and fall. Temperatures are moderate and rain events are more rare. It is also possible to rock climb sunny aspects during the winter though occasional storms pass through the Moab region and cold windy conditions are possible.

  • Rock climbing in the Fisher Towers is on a soft sandstone that is highly porous. Rain is absorbed into the rock and weakens the bond on hand holds and even bolts. In the event of rain within 24 hours in Moab and the Fisher Chimneys, we may have to reschedule a climb of Ancient Art. This reschedule will depend on how much rain occurs, whether the sun comes out, and what the wind speed/direction is.

    Our guides and office staff will work you to coordinate rescheduling, if necessary. For more information on our cancellation policy, please see our terms and conditions and contact us with any other questions.

Book A Guided Climb On Ancient Art

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