Silverton & Eureka Ice Climbing Guides
Climb High Elevation Backcountry Ice In Silverton & Eureka
High above the Animas River, the mountains surrounding Silverton and Eureka offer some of Colorado's most impressive backcountry ice climbing. Higher elevations, remote terrain, and a long winter season create opportunities for everything from moderate multipitch ice to steep, technical routes that demand solid, efficient ice climbing skills. For experienced ice climbers looking to venture beyond the Ouray Ice Park, Silverton and Eureka offer a more alpine and adventurous backcountry experience.
Skyward Mountaineering offers private, customized ice climbing trips in the Silverton and Eureka area. Our guides select objectives based on your experience, goals, and current conditions. Whether you're looking to climb a classic moderate route or pursue a challenging multipitch objective, we'll help you find the right climb.
Backcountry ice climbing, with routes ranging in difficulty from WI2 to WI5, depending on the objective. Routes in Eureka are 1 - 8 pitches in length, depending on the objective, for intermediate climbers to experts.
Backcountry ice climbing in Eureka is best suited for climbers who already have experience toproping ice and are comfortable with fundamental climbing skills. If you're new to ice climbing, start with a guided day in the Ouray Ice Park and use it as preparation for a backcountry multipitch objective.
A full day (8 hours) of ice climbing, some routes are longer and will take additional time. All backcountry ice climbing trips are custom bookings, with a reliable season from mid November - early April.
Eureka, Colorado is 10 miles outside the town of Silverton tucked into the San Juan Mountains.
9,863 ft / 3,006 m
Classic Ice Climbing in Eureka
Just outside Silverton, the historic mining town of Eureka provides access to a collection of long, high elevation backcountry ice routes. The area is known for its remote alpine setting and sustained multipitch climbing.
Classic objectives range from moderate routes suitable for climbers developing their multipitch skills to steep and technical climbs for experienced ice and mixed climbers. Because access and conditions can vary significantly throughout the season, your guide will select objectives based on what is actually climbable rather than relying on a predetermined itinerary. Below are a selection of some of our favorite routes in the area.
Moderate Multipitch Ice
For climbers with previous ice experience who are ready to move beyond single-pitch climbing, moderate Eureka routes provide an opportunity to learn the systems required for longer backcountry objectives. These climbs combine lower angle ice climbing for multiple pitches, with dynamic alpine conditions, and the complexities of climbing a long backcountry multipitch route.
Second Gully (WI3): A classic moderate Eureka objective that provides an excellent introduction to the area's longer routes. 5-6 pitches of lower angle ice climbing paired with steep snow climbing and excellent views across the valley.
Intermediate Backcountry Ice
Experienced ice climbers can pursue classic WI4 objectives with longer pitches, sustained climbing, and more involved approaches. These routes are ideal for climbers looking to improve efficiency, refine multipitch systems, and gain experience climbing backcountry ice in a more remote environment.
Captain Roos (WI4/5): 4 pitches tucked into a narrow canyon, this dramatic route is very popular and with less overhead avalanche hazard than other routes in Eureka it is often a good option midwinter.
Stairway To Heaven (WI4): One of the longest routes in Eureka, this aesthetic ribbon of ice is a mega-classic. With several steps of steeper ice and several pitches of lower angle terrain, Stairway To Heaven is a great route to work on multipitch efficiency.
Advanced Backcountry Ice
Silverton and Eureka also offer steep ice and mixed routes for highly experienced climbers. These objectives require strong ice climbing ability, efficient systems, and a high level of fitness for a longer day in the mountains.
Hoser’s Highway (WI5): The longest route in Eureka, with multiple steps of steep snow climbing and an incredible pillar of steep ice in the middle of the route.
Dukes Of Hazzard (WI5, M6): A difficult route in Eureka, with steep mixed climbing, a dagger and a pillar, tucked into a shallow canyon. Rare to form, but when it’s in it’s a favorite. Plus, Skyward owner, Vince Anderson established the route’s First Ascent!
The Calling (WI4, M4): A rare to form mixed route on the prominent Outward Bound Wall in Eureka. This route follows drips of ice with engaging mixed climbing linking blobs and daggers for 5 pitches.
Plan Your Backcountry Ice Climbing Trip To Silverton
Early Season Ice Climbing in Silverton
One of the major advantages of climbing in the Silverton and Eureka area is its elevation. High elevation routes can begin forming earlier than many of the lower routes around Ouray and can remain climbable later into the spring as well. This makes Silverton and Eureka valuable destinations when conditions in Ouray are still developing or beginning to deteriorate.
Our guides monitor conditions and remain flexible so that we can pursue the best available objective rather than forcing a particular route.
Avalanche Conditions
Backcountry ice climbing in Silverton and Eureka requires more than just the climbing itself. Many approaches and routes travel through avalanche terrain, and access can be affected by the current snowpack, recent snowfall, wind loading, and warming temperatures.
Our guides are expert ice climbers and avalanche professionals who evaluate the entire objective, from the trailhead to the descent, and any overhead avalanche hazard in between. We believe in transparency and conservative risk management. Good backcountry guiding means knowing when conditions are right to climb and when they aren't.
Why Choose Skyward Mountaineering?
Our guides have extensive experience climbing and guiding throughout the San Juan Mountains and understand how avalanche hazard, weather, and ice conditions influence route selection, in addition to meeting you where you’re at with your goals, fitness, and abilities.
Skyward has been guiding mountain adventures since 1996, with a focus on technical expertise, thoughtful risk management, and customized objectives. Our private trips allow us to tailor the experience to your goals rather than putting you into a predetermined itinerary. You'll climb with experienced professionals who can help you improve your technique, refine your multipitch systems, and make better decisions in complex mountain terrain.
Explore Backcountry Ice Climbing Throughout The San Juans
The San Juan Mountains offer far more than the classic ice climbs around Eureka. Depending on conditions, our guides also explore backcountry ice and mixed routes throughout the surrounding area, from the classic routes in Ouray, the challenging test piece, Bridal Veil Falls in Telluride, and the remote ice climbing at Lake City. These areas offer everything from moderate multipitch ice to steep, technical routes for experienced climbers. With constantly changing ice and snow conditions, local knowledge is essential, we'll help you identify the best objective based on your experience, goals, and current conditions.
Ouray Ice Climbing
Ouray is the heart of ice climbing in the San Juan Mountains, with the world renowned Ouray Ice Park and a wide variety of backcountry routes just outside town. From introductory ice climbing to classic multipitch routes and challenging ice and mixed objectives, Ouray offers exceptional climbing for a broad range of experience levels.
Telluride Ice Climbing
Known for it’s famous ski resort, Telluride also offers some of the San Juans' most dramatic ice climbing, highlighted by the iconic Bridal Veil Falls. This 400 ft WI5/6 route provides experienced climbers with steep, three-dimensional ice climbing in an impressive alpine setting.
Lake City Ice Climbing
Lake City is a quieter alternative to Ouray, with more than 100 routes at the Lake City Ice Park and multipitch routes in the surrounding backcountry. Lake City is an excellent destination for climbers looking to develop their skills or explore longer routes without the crowds.
FAQs About Backcountry Ice Climbing In Silverton
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Avalanche hazard, weather forecasts, and ice conditions are particularly important when planning a trip to Silverton or Eureka. The area's high elevation can create excellent ice, but it also means winter weather and avalanche conditions can have a major impact on access and route selection. Before your trip, we'll discuss current conditions and potential objectives with you. If you have a specific route in mind, let us know when you inquire or book.
Our guides make ongoing observations of conditions in Eureka throughout the winter and we maintain an up-to-date ice climbing conditions report for the Northern San Juan Mountains. Check out the current conditions and get psyched for your trip!
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The high elevation of the Silverton and Eureka area can allow backcountry ice to form early in the season and remain in condition later into spring. November through April can offer opportunities depending on the year, although individual routes are still highly dependent on temperature, precipitation, sun exposure, and current snow and avalanche conditions.
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Previous ice climbing experience is required, but you don't necessarily need multipitch experience. A guided trip can be an excellent way to transition from single-pitch ice to longer routes while learning efficient systems.
Eureka has several beginner-friendly multipitch routes for climbers with solid WI3 and WI4 toprope experience.
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Absolutely. If you have a particular ice climbing route in Silverton or Eureka on your tick list, just let us know when you inquire or book. We'll discuss the route, your experience, and current conditions and determine whether it is an appropriate objective for your trip.
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Adaptability is essential when climbing backcountry ice, just like alpine climbing expeditions. If your planned route is out of condition or affected by avalanche hazard, your guide will evaluate alternative objectives based on current conditions and your goals. There are plentiful alternative routes to choose from nearby in the San Juan Mountains so pivoting the plan to a different route that still meets your goals is our primary choice.