North Cascades Alpine Climbing Guides
Climb Classic Peaks & Glaciers in Washington's North Cascades
The North Cascades offer some of the most spectacular and challenging alpine climbing in the Pacific Northwest. Climb classic glaciated peaks and exposed granite ridges throughout the remote and rugged Cascades Range. All of our mountaineering and alpine climbing trips are highly customized, from introductory glacier climbs on Kulshan (Mount Baker) to committing alpine traverses, we tailor each adventure to your experience and goals. Choose from a diverse range of alpine climbing such as the trade route West Ridge of Forbidden (a “50 Classic Climbs of North America”), the challenging linkup of remote peaks on the Inspiration Traverse, or the aesthetic big alpine ice route North Ridge of Kulshan
Alpine climbing in the North Cascades ranges from beginner glacier mountaineering routes to advanced and committing traverses and technical routes.
Beginner glaciated climbs such as the Coleman-Deming route on Kulshan require no previous climbing experience, though more technical climbing routes require climbers have previous rock climbing and snow climbing experience. Get in touch to discuss your previous experience and our guide team will recommend routes appropriate for your ability and steps to improve your skills.
Most alpine climbing routes in the North Cascades have a 3 day itinerary due to the length of the approach and summit day, though it is possible to climb some routes in a long day as well. More challenging and remote traverses may require 4-6 days, such as in the Pickets Range.
North Cascades National Park is the primary location for guided alpine climbing trips in Washington, though we also offer mountaineering trips on Mount Baker, Glacier Peak, Snoqualmie Pass, and other alpine rock climbing routes throughout Washington.
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![Purple alpenglow lights up the Coleman Glacier on Mount Baker.]()
Beginner glaciated mountaineering trips on the Coleman-Deming and Easton Glaciers. Advanced, technical mountaineering on the alpine ice and steep snow climbing North Ridge route. Standard itinerary is 3 days though it is possible to climb the routes in 2 days or add extra days for additional training.
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![A climber in a green jacket ascends the South Ridge on Mount Shuksan's summit pyramid. Mnt Baker rises in the background.]()
Intermediate to advanced alpine climbing on Mount Shuksan. Sulphide Glacier is the easiest route with lower angle snow climbing. The Fisher Chimneys is a crowd-favorite with a technical approach day on 4th class rock and steep snow climbing on summit day. The North Face route is a challenging sustained steep snow climb.
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![The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak descends into thick clouds with the large glaciers of Eldorado Peak in the background.]()
Intermediate to advanced alpine climbing, such as the 50 Favorite Climbs West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. More advanced routes with a bivy include the North Ridge and Torment-Forbidden Traverse. Most itineraries are at least 3 days long, though it’s possible to link multiple routes with a longer trip.
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![A climber in a green helmet and red backpack is ascending the Northeast Ridge on Dorado Needle with the summit of Eldorado Peak in the background.]()
Intermediate to advanced alpine climbing on Eldorado Peak and surrounding mountains. The Inspiration Traverse is a classic linkup of multiple peaks on the Eldorado Ice Cap which can be combined in one trip or it’s possible to climb the routes individually, such as Early Morning Spire or Dorado Needle. Most Eldorado Peak trips are at least 4 days due to the length of the approach.
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![A climber in a white hooded shirt is traversing an exposed ridge on Mount Triumph with the Pickets Range in the background.]()
Intermediate alpine climbing on the Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph. With the Pickets Range as the backdrop this aesthetic route is typically a 3 day trip with a long summit day of alpine rock climbing on an exposed ridge.
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![A rock climber in a white and orange helmet with an orange backpack is reaching for a handhold on the arete of the route, Mile High Club.]()
Intermediate to advanced alpine rock climbing in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. The route Mile High Club is a 7 pitch 5.10a or Beyond Redlining is an 11 pitch 5.10+. It is possible to climb these routes in one long day or camp in the basin for a shorter summit day or to combine routes.
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![A rock climber in a white helmet is traversing a steep slabby face on the route Ragged Edges on Vesper Peak. A sea of clouds rises in the background.]()
Intermediate to advanced alpine rock climbing on Vesper Peak. Popular routes include Ragged Edge, a 6 pitch 5.7, True Grit, a 5 pitch 5.8, or Fish and Whistle, a 5 pitch 5.10. It is possible to climb these routes in one long day from the trailhead or camp in the basin for a shorter summit day or to combine nearby routes.
Choose Your Climb:
From your first climb to the summit of a glaciated peak to technical alpine rock climbs, the North Cascades offer a climbing objective for nearly every level of experience. Choose an aesthetic route on your tick list or work with our guides to build a custom climb around your goals, experience, and sense of adventure. Here is a selection of popular route options, though we’re also always excited to get off the beaten track too!
Beginner Mountaineering
Kulshan: The Coleman-Deming and Easton Glacier routes are both ideal for an introduction to glaciated mountaineering. These classic routes offer an opportunity to learn glacier travel, snow climbing, and alpine camping skills while climbing a spectacular Cascade summit.
Intermediate Alpine Climbing
Mount Shuksan: The Sulphide Glacier and Fisher Chimneys routes on Mount Shuksan are the next step into technical alpine climbing, combining glacier travel and steep snow climbing with low 5th class rock climbing on the summit pyramid.
Vesper Peak: Ragged Edge is a great introduction to alpine rock climbing with moderate rock climbing (5.7). Climbers must have previous experience with multipitch rock climbing.
Intermediate - Advanced Alpine Climbing
Forbidden Peak: The West Ridge and East Ridge of Forbidden Peak are both excellent, exposed ridge traverses with moderate rock climbing. The West Ridge is certainly the must-do classic, though the East Ridge’s dramatic knife-edge ridge, more complex terrain, and with a descent down the West Ridge it’s a more well-rounded alpine climb.
Eldorado Peak: This zone is best for longer trips due to the length of the approach, but once you’re at the camp there are multiple routes on a variety of peaks to choose from. From shorter routes such as the North Ridge of Eldorado Peak to longer routes such as the East Ridge of Dorado Needle, there is no shortage of excellent alpine rock climbing, complex glacier travel and committing routes around Eldorado Peak.
North Ridge of Kulshan: This route is the crown jewel of alpine ice and steep snow climbing in the Cascades. Committing and sustained with complex glacier travel, the North Ridge is excellent prep for bigger alpine ice routes such as in Alaska or South America.
Advanced Alpine Climbing
Torment-Forbidden Traverse: This committing mile-long traverse links the South Face of Mount Torment with the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak and is considered the gold standard for challenging alpine climbing in the North Cascades. Most parties bivy 1-2 nights on the ridge, making for a truly well-rounded alpine climbing experience.
North Ridge of Forbidden: One of our guide’s favorite routes, the North Ridge circumnavigates Forbidden Peak with complex glacier travel, exposed ridges, and excellent rock climbing. The bivy on route is also one of the best in the entire North Cascades.
West Arete of Eldorado Peak: Approached from the more remote access point of the Marble Creek cirque, the West Arete is one of the longest and most committing routes in the Cascades.
Not sure which climb is right for you?
Our guides can help match an objective to your experience and goals, or create a custom North Cascades alpine climbing itinerary tailored specifically to you. There is an endless amount of alpine climbing in the Cascade Range, let our guides help you break the mold.
